The first time I drove into Umbria, I had the strange sense of slipping through a side door into Italy. The road curled through rolling green hills that seemed to go on forever, broken only by stone farmhouses and the occasional bell tower rising above the trees.
Medieval towns perched on ridges, their walls glowing honey-gold in the late afternoon light. What struck me most wasn’t just the beauty, it was the quiet. I wasn’t jostling through selfie sticks or rushing to book a table before the crowds. Life here moved at its own rhythm, unbothered by the pace of the outside world.
People often call Tuscany Italy’s crown jewel, and I understand why it’s gorgeous. But Umbria feels like Tuscany’s confidant: just as rich in art, food, and wine, yet with a calmness that lets you actually take it all in.
Here you can sip a glass of Sagrantino in Montefalco while the winemaker tells you about his grandfather’s vines, or wander through Assisi at dusk when the tour buses have gone and the basilica glows softly in the fading light.
In this guide, I’ll share the best things I discovered in Umbria from timeless hill towns like Orvieto and Spello, to mornings spent truffle hunting in the woods, afternoons hiking to waterfalls, and evenings that ended with a plate of pasta alla norcina and a carafe of red wine.
I’ve also included my favorite times of year to visit, ideas for where to base yourself, and sample itineraries so you can plan a trip that feels less like a checklist and more like a series of memorable days.
Who Umbria Is For & How to Use This Guide
Umbria is the region I recommend to friends who say, “I want the Italian countryside, but I don’t want to feel rushed.” It’s a place for travelers who like to wander slowly, to sit down for lunch and let it stretch into the afternoon, or to spend a morning getting lost in a maze of cobbled alleys without worrying about what’s next on the list.
If you love food, you’ll be spoiled here. The region is famous for black truffles, hearty pastas, and robust wines that taste like they were made to pair with long conversations. If history and art are what call you to Italy, Umbria has frescoes that shaped European painting, gothic cathedrals that will stop you mid-step, and small museums that feel almost private.
And if the outdoors is where you come alive, you’ll find rivers to raft, trails to hike, lakes to paddle, and even hot-air balloons drifting across the sunrise.
This guide is meant to be a companion, not a rigid itinerary. You can dip in and out; maybe you only have two days and want to see the highlights, or maybe you’re planning a week-long road trip and want to piece together different towns and experiences.
I’ll walk you through the best times to visit, how to choose a base, and what not to miss along the way. My hope is that by the end, you’ll have a trip that feels like your own personal discovery of Umbria, not just another version of someone else’s.
When to Visit Umbria
Spring (April–June)
Spring in Umbria feels like the countryside is waking up. Hillsides are dotted with wildflowers, vineyards start to turn green, and it’s finally warm enough to sit outside with a glass of local white wine.
This is also when Assisi celebrates Calendimaggio, a medieval festival where the whole town dresses in costume, sings, and parades one of those times when you feel like you’ve stepped into history. The weather is usually mild, though you might want a light jacket for the evenings.
Summer (July–August)
Summer days are long and hot, and festivals pop up everywhere, from tiny village sagras to the world-famous Festival dei Due Mondi in Spoleto. If you love music and performance, this is the season to come.
Be prepared, though: afternoons can be scorching, especially if you’re wandering around hilltop towns. I learned to plan sightseeing for mornings and evenings and leave the middle of the day for long lunches in shady trattorias. Expect more visitors too, especially in August when Italians themselves go on holiday.
Autumn (September–October)
This is my favorite time in Umbria. The air cools down, vineyards buzz with harvest activity, and towns like Montefalco overflow with wine tastings. Truffle season kicks off, and you’ll see menus filled with tagliatelle piled high with shavings of the earthy black diamonds.
The hills turn golden, and driving through the countryside feels like being inside a painting. It’s a season made for slow meals, lingering over bold reds like Sagrantino, and soaking up the rhythm of rural life.
Winter (November–March)
Winter is quiet here. Tourist numbers drop, and the towns feel more intimate, especially when Christmas lights twinkle in stone piazzas. Perugia and Gubbio have Christmas markets, and in Gubbio you’ll even find one of the largest Christmas tree displays in the world, strung across the hillside.
Many restaurants and hotels stay open year-round, so it’s a cozy time to visit if you don’t mind the chill. I loved ducking into trattorias for hearty lentil stews and fireplaces that seemed to warm both the room and the mood.
Where to Base Yourself in Umbria
Choosing the right base makes a big difference in how you experience Umbria. Each town has its own character, and where you stay will shape your days. Here’s how I think about the main options:
Perugia
If you want energy and variety, Perugia is a great choice. It’s the capital, so you get excellent transport connections, which makes it practical if you don’t plan on renting a car. The city itself has a young, lively atmosphere thanks to its universities, with students filling the piazzas and cafés late into the evening.
You can spend your mornings wandering medieval lanes and afternoons in museums or chocolate shops, then still find a buzzing nightlife scene after dinner. For me, it struck a nice balance between being a base for day trips and feeling like a destination in its own right.
Assisi
Assisi is the spiritual heart of Umbria, and it feels very different depending on the time of day. During the afternoon, the streets can be crowded with pilgrims and tour groups, but as soon as the day-trippers leave, the town softens into something magical.
Quiet piazzas, views over the valley glowing in the evening light, and the sense of history in every stone make staying overnight special. I found that early mornings here were some of the most peaceful of my trip walking through nearly empty streets before breakfast felt like stepping back in time.
Orvieto
Orvieto is dramatic in every sense. The town sits high on volcanic rock, and arriving there feels like entering a fortress in the sky. The cathedral is breathtaking, with a façade that shimmers in the sun, and the underground tunnels hint at how layered the town’s history is.
It works well for a shorter stay or as part of a road trip, since it’s also well connected by train to Rome and Florence. Personally, I loved how compact it was: you could explore by foot without rushing, and in the evenings it felt almost theatrical, the cliff edges lit up against the dark.
Lake Trasimeno
If your idea of a holiday involves slower mornings and plenty of time outdoors, Lake Trasimeno is where you’ll want to be. The lake itself is wide and calm, with ferries that take you out to its islands, and the atmosphere is much more laid-back compared to the hill towns.
Families tend to enjoy it here because of the space and water activities, but I also found it a relaxing break from sightseeing long lunches at lakeside trattorias, cycling around the shoreline, and watching sunsets over the water made it feel almost Mediterranean.
The Best Things to Do in Umbria
Assisi
Assisi is one of those towns that feels timeless. The highlight is, of course, the Basilica di San Francesco, where Giotto’s frescoes tell the story of Saint Francis in vivid color. Standing in front of them, I felt like I was seeing the beginnings of Renaissance art unfold. After the basilica, it’s worth making the climb to Rocca Maggiore, the medieval fortress above town.
The walk is a bit of a workout, but the reward is a sweeping view over the valley that stretches for miles, dotted with olive groves and vineyards. Stay until evening if you can once the tour buses leave, Assisi takes on a quiet, spiritual atmosphere that feels very different from the busy afternoons.
Orvieto
Orvieto is a town that leaves an impression the moment you arrive. The Gothic Duomo dominates the skyline, its façade covered in mosaics that sparkle in the sun, and stepping inside you’re met with soaring ceilings and powerful frescoes.
But what fascinated me even more was what lies below the surface. The Orvieto Underground is a maze of tunnels and caves carved out by the Etruscans thousands of years ago, later used as wine cellars, wells, and even World War II shelters. Walking through them gave me a sense of how layered and resilient this town really is.
Spello
Spello is smaller and quieter than its famous neighbors, but it might be the prettiest of them all. Narrow streets wind through the old town, and almost every balcony seems to overflow with flowers.
In June, Spello bursts into celebration during the Infiorata festival, when residents create elaborate floral carpets across the streets for Corpus Domini. Even if you don’t catch the festival, the flowers are a constant presence, and wandering through feels like stepping into a painting. I loved how relaxed it felt here, a perfect town to slow down in.
Gubbio
Gubbio feels like a medieval stage set, all stone buildings and dramatic backdrops of mountains. It’s also home to one of Italy’s most eccentric and ancient festivals: the Festa dei Ceri in May. I was amazed by the sheer energy of three huge wooden “candles,” each weighing hundreds of kilos, raced through the streets carried on the shoulders of local men.
Even outside of festival time, Gubbio has plenty to offer: the Palazzo dei Consoli is a striking landmark, and the funicular ride up Mount Ingino gives you a bird’s-eye view of the town’s impressive medieval layout.
Bevagna
Bevagna is smaller and less showy than places like Assisi or Orvieto, but that’s exactly what makes it special. Walking through its streets feels like you’ve slipped back a few centuries. The town is known for its artisan workshops that still use traditional techniques of papermaking, candle dipping, and weaving.
I found it fascinating to watch craftspeople at work, using tools and methods that haven’t changed much since the Middle Ages. The slower pace here makes it a wonderful place to pause and connect with Umbria’s traditions.
Food & Wine Experiences
Truffle Hunting in Norcia
Norcia is famous for its black truffles, and going out with a local guide and their dogs is one of the most memorable food experiences I’ve had in Umbria. The dogs are incredible to watch noses to the ground, tails wagging, they somehow know exactly where to dig.
Autumn is the best time, when the prized black truffles are in season, but you can join a hunt year-round. Afterward, most tours end with a simple meal where those freshly unearthed truffles are grated over pasta or eggs. It’s earthy, rich, and as “farm-to-table” as it gets.
Wine in Montefalco
Montefalco is often called the “balcony of Umbria” for its sweeping views, but it’s the wine that really defines it. The town is the birthplace of Sagrantino, a bold, tannic red that locals say needs food and patience to show its best side.
Tasting it in the cellars here, often poured by winemakers themselves, is a completely different experience than drinking it anywhere else. I liked pairing a glass of Sagrantino with hearty Umbrian dishes, but I also discovered lighter whites like Grechetto, which balance things out nicely on warmer days. Many cantinas welcome visitors, and it’s easy to spend an afternoon hopping between them.
Olive Oil in Torgiano
In Umbria, olive oil isn’t just a condiment, it’s a way of life. Torgiano is one of the best places to dive into this tradition. Visiting a frantoio, an olive mill during harvest season means you get to see the olives being crushed and the thick green-gold liquid flowing straight from the press.
Freshly pressed Umbrian oil has this peppery kick at the back of your throat that surprised me the first time, and locals will tell you that’s exactly how you know it’s the good stuff. Tasting it with nothing more than a piece of crusty bread was enough to appreciate why Umbrians are so proud of it.
Local Dishes to Try
Umbrian food is rustic, hearty, and tied closely to the land. Pasta alla norcina, made with sausage, cream, and sometimes truffle, is rich and comforting. I ordered it more than once on chilly evenings. Porchetta sandwiches, stuffed with slow-roasted, herb-scented pork, are a classic street food you’ll find at markets and fairs.
And then there’s torta al testo, a kind of flatbread that locals slice open and stuff with meats, cheeses, or sautéed greens. It’s the sort of food that doesn’t need to be fancy; it’s about flavor and tradition, and you’ll taste both in every bite.
Nature & Outdoor Adventures
Marmore Falls (Cascata delle Marmore)
Marmore Falls isn’t just any waterfall, it’s one of the tallest in Europe, and it’s man-made, first engineered by the Romans more than 2,000 years ago. The cascade is actually turned on and off, so timing your visit makes all the difference. When the gates open, the water thunders down the cliffs in a powerful rush, mist rising around you.
Trails weave through the surrounding park, with viewpoints at different levels, so you can admire it from above, below, or right in the spray. I recommend checking the release schedule before you go and arriving early; watching that first surge of water feels dramatic every time.
Lake Trasimeno
Lake Trasimeno is Umbria’s answer to a seaside escape. The shores are dotted with sandy beaches, picnic spots, and trattorias serving up fresh fish from the lake. For something more active, you can rent a kayak or paddleboard and head out onto the calm water, or cycle part of the 70-kilometer path that circles the lake.
Don’t miss the little ferry trips out to the islands. Isola Maggiore is my favorite, with its fishing village atmosphere and peaceful walking trails. Sunsets here are spectacular, with the light reflecting across the water and hills.
Rafting on the Nera River
For a dose of adrenaline, head to Valnerina, where the Nera River winds through narrow gorges. Rafting here is a mix of rushing rapids and calmer stretches where you can float and take in the scenery.
The backdrop is classic Umbrian countryside cliffs, forests, and tiny villages clinging to hillsides. It’s a fun contrast to the slow-paced days in towns and vineyards, and outfitters provide everything you need, whether you’re a beginner or more experienced.
Festivals & Unique Experiences
Festa dei Ceri in Gubbio
If you ever find yourself in Gubbio on May 15, you’ll witness one of Italy’s oldest and most exhilarating festivals. The Festa dei Ceri sees three enormous wooden “candles,” each weighing several hundred kilos, race through the steep streets of the town on the shoulders of local men.
The energy is contagious the whole town pours out to cheer, and it feels less like a performance and more like a collective act of passion. It’s chaotic, loud, and unforgettable.
Calendimaggio in Assisi
In early May, Assisi transforms for Calendimaggio, a spring festival that feels like a step back into the Middle Ages. Locals dress in traditional costumes, musicians play in the streets, and parades and competitions fill the piazzas.
Each half of the town competes in elaborate pageantry, and the friendly rivalry gives the whole thing a vibrant edge. By night, with torches lighting the stone streets, the atmosphere becomes almost magical.
Mercato delle Gaite in Bevagna
Bevagna’s Mercato delle Gaite is a living history lesson that spills into every corner of town each June. The festival recreates a medieval market, complete with craftspeople demonstrating old trades like blacksmithing, papermaking, and weaving.
Walking through it, you really feel immersed in the rhythms of another time. Food stalls serve traditional dishes, and you can watch competitions between the town’s neighborhoods. It’s as much about pride as it is about performance.
Day Trips & Hidden Gems
Fonti del Clitunno
South of Spoleto, the Clitunno Springs are a pocket of tranquility. The water here is so clear it glows turquoise, with weeping willows hanging over the pools and ducks gliding across the surface.
The Romans once believed these waters were sacred, and it’s easy to see why. It’s not a place that takes hours to explore, but it makes a lovely pause between bigger sights.
Foligno’s Calamita Cosmica
Foligno has one of the quirkiest sights in Umbria: Calamita Cosmica, a gigantic skeletal sculpture that fills the nave of a deconsecrated church. The sheer size of it is staggering 24 meters long and the setting makes it all the more surreal. It’s contemporary art in a medieval shell, and it stopped me in my tracks the first time I walked in.
Small Villages Worth a Wander
Beyond the headline towns, Umbria’s charm really shines in its smaller villages. Montefalco is known for wine, particularly the bold Sagrantino, but it also has quiet streets and valley views.
Trevi is perched high on a hill and surrounded by olive groves, a place where you can taste some of the region’s best oil. Città della Pieve, with its red-brick buildings, feels different from the stone towns elsewhere in Umbria, and it has a quiet rhythm that makes it perfect for a slow afternoon.
Itineraries
2 Days in Umbria
If you only have a weekend, I’d suggest starting in Perugia. Spend the morning wandering Corso Vannucci, popping into cafés and maybe the National Gallery to get a sense of the region’s art. The city’s energy makes for a lively first stop.
By afternoon, head to Assisi. It’s about a 30-minute drive and give yourself time to see the Basilica di San Francesco and walk through the old streets.
The magic really begins after sunset, when the tour buses have gone and the town falls quiet. Spend the night here, waking up to the sound of church bells instead of traffic. On your second day, drive to Spello, a flower-filled gem where you can take your time with a slow stroll and maybe lunch at a trattoria.
End the trip in Montefalco with a wine tasting. Sitting with a glass of Sagrantino overlooking the valley is one of those moments that sums up Umbria perfectly.
4 Days in Umbria
With four days, you can balance art, nature, and food without rushing. Day one is all about Perugia, explore the underground Rocca Paolina, wander through the old town, and if you’re a chocolate lover, don’t miss the Perugina factory.
On day two, take a classic day trip pairing: Assisi in the morning, where you can see the frescoes before the crowds build, and Spello in the afternoon, with plenty of time to sit down for a spritz or gelato before dinner.
Day three is your nature day. Start with Marmore Falls, where you can hike to viewpoints and watch the water thunder down, then head to Spoleto for the evening. Its Roman theater, medieval bridge, and elegant piazzas make it a wonderful place to dine and stay overnight.
On your last day, focus on food and wine: tour the wineries of Montefalco and finish with an olive oil tasting in Torgiano. It’s a slower day that gives you a chance to savor the flavors of the region before heading home.
7 Days in Umbria
A full week lets you really sink into Umbria’s rhythm. Spend your first two days between Perugia and Assisi: enjoy the museums, cafés, and markets of the capital, then balance it with the quiet, spiritual beauty of Assisi.
On day three, head north to Spello and then on to Gubbio. Spello’s lanes are full of flowers and charm, while Gubbio feels like a medieval stronghold, with steep streets and stone towers.
Day four brings adventure: drive to Marmore Falls in the morning, then tackle rafting on the Nera River in the afternoon for a shot of adrenaline. Day five slows down again with wine tastings around Montefalco, plan for a leisurely lunch at a vineyard and give yourself time to just sit with a glass and the views. On day six, make your way south to Orvieto. The Duomo here is breathtaking, and the underground tunnels give you a completely different perspective on the town’s history.
Wrap up your trip on day seven at Lake Trasimeno. Whether you rent a kayak, take a ferry to Isola Maggiore, or simply relax by the water with a long lunch, it’s the perfect soft landing before you leave Umbria behind.
Practical Info & Logistics
Getting There
Perugia has a small regional airport, but unless you’re flying from certain European cities, you’ll probably arrive via Rome or Florence. From either, you can rent a car and enjoy the drive through rolling countryside, or catch a train into Perugia or Orvieto.
Getting Around
A car really opens up Umbria, especially if you want to explore smaller villages and countryside wineries. Trains and buses do connect larger towns like Perugia, Assisi, and Spoleto, but schedules can be limiting. I found the flexibility of having a car worth the occasional stress of parking.
Driving Tips
Hill towns were built long before cars, so streets are narrow, parking is limited, and often located just outside the old centers. Don’t be surprised if you end up walking uphill into town. It’s part of the charm, and the views usually make up for it.
Costs to Expect
Experiences in Umbria are relatively affordable compared to more famous Italian regions. A truffle hunt runs around €60–€120 per person, winery tours average €15–€30, and a hearty restaurant meal usually falls between €15–€25. Museums are typically €6–€10. Even splurges, like Michelin-starred dining, feel less inflated than in places like Tuscany.
Where to Eat & Drink: My Picks
Osteria a Priori (Perugia)
A cozy spot right in the historic center, with a menu full of Umbrian classics and a long wine list featuring small producers. It feels local and welcoming, and I still remember the hand-rolled pasta I had here.
Bibenda Wine Bar (Assisi)
If you want to learn about Umbrian wines in a relaxed setting, Bibenda is the place. The owner is passionate about introducing people to local varieties, and the wine flights come with snacks that pair beautifully.
Il Postale (Città di Castello)
For something special, Il Postale is a Michelin-starred restaurant that reimagines Umbrian traditions with creativity. It’s a splurge, but if you’re celebrating, it’s worth it.
Enoteca Properzio (Spello)
This family-run wine shop and tasting room is known for Sagrantino, but they’ll walk you through a whole range of Umbrian wines. I left not just with bottles, but with a much deeper appreciation for how tied wine is to the land here.
Conclusion
Umbria rewards those who take their time. My fondest memories here aren’t just the frescoes or waterfalls, but long meals with new friends and quiet walks in villages I’d never heard of before arriving. If you’ve been tempted by Tuscany, try Umbria instead or better yet, add both.
