The first time I arrived in Modena, it was just after sunrise. The streets were still quiet, the shutters drawn, and a light mist clung to the air. But even in those early moments, there was something unmistakably warm and inviting about the city. The scent that drifted through the alleyways was part bakery, part wine cellar a soft blend of sweet pastries, rich espresso, and the unmistakable tang of aged balsamic vinegar. I followed it instinctively, like a trail.
Modena isn’t loud or flashy. It doesn’t try to impress you with grandeur. Instead, it draws you in slowly, with quiet confidence. One minute you’re passing under centuries-old porticos, and the next you’re watching a Ferrari speed down a country road. It’s a place where the past and present don’t just coexist they dance together in perfect rhythm.
I didn’t know much about Modena before I arrived. I knew it was the home of balsamic vinegar and Ferraris, but I quickly realized it had layers I hadn’t expected. Rich food traditions. Soulful streets. A pace that makes you want to linger.
Whether you’re planning a full weekend or just a quick day trip from Bologna, this guide covers the absolute best things to do in Modena from what to eat and see to how to truly experience the heart of the city.
1. Take a Traditional Balsamic Vinegar Tour
You can’t come to Modena without experiencing the magic of traditional balsamic vinegar. And I don’t mean the stuff you drizzle over salads at home. I’m talking about Aceto Balsamico Tradizionale di Modena, the kind that takes 12 to 25 years to mature and is so thick and complex it tastes like a cross between syrup and wine.
I booked a tour at Acetaia Malpighi, a family-run acetaia just outside the city center. The building looked ordinary from the outside, but upstairs in the attic, rows of wooden barrels lined the room, each holding precious vinegar at various stages of aging. Some barrels were over a century old.
The tour guide walked us through the entire process from pressing the grapes to slowly aging the must in barrels made of cherry, chestnut, juniper, and more. The air was rich and sweet, almost like stepping into a winery. And the tasting? Life-changing. We sampled vinegars aged 12, 18, and 25 years. The older ones were thicker, more nuanced, with flavors that lingered like good wine.
Before this trip, I never imagined sipping balsamic vinegar straight from a spoon. Now, I crave it.
If you plan to bring some home, check the label carefully. Only vinegar labeled “Aceto Balsamico Tradizionale di Modena DOP” is the real deal.
2. Visit Modena Cathedral & Piazza Grande
I stumbled upon Modena Cathedral while wandering on my first morning, and I immediately stopped in my tracks. Its white stone façade gleamed in the sun, framed by the wide-open space of Piazza Grande. It was peaceful, but grand. Ancient, but alive.
This cathedral has stood here since the 12th century, and its Romanesque design is nothing short of captivating. The stone carvings around the doors are wild and wonderful dragons, lions, prophets. I couldn’t help but run my fingers across the rough surface, wondering how many hands had touched it before mine.
Inside, it’s quieter than you’d expect, dimly lit with shafts of sunlight cutting through stained glass. The ceiling seemed to stretch forever. It’s a space that makes you slow down, whether you’re religious or not.
Afterward, I sat at a café in the piazza with a cappuccino and just watched the city come alive. Tourists snapped photos, kids chased pigeons, and locals passed by with their shopping bags. It was the kind of moment that made me feel like I belonged, even if just for a day.
If you love photography, this is your spot. Every angle feels like it should be a postcard.
3. Explore Mercato Albinelli
I’ve been to a lot of markets while traveling, but Mercato Albinelli has a special energy. Tucked under an old iron-and-glass roof, this covered market buzzes with life. You hear the hum of conversation, the rhythmic slicing of cured meats, the soft thud of wheels of cheese being lifted onto counters.
As soon as I walked in, I was hit with a wave of smells: salty prosciutto, ripe tomatoes, freshly baked focaccia, and roasted coffee. Every stall seemed to offer something new. One had nothing but handmade pasta. Another sold pickled vegetables in tall glass jars. A butcher trimmed meat with the ease of someone who’s done it for decades.
I didn’t plan to buy much, but I left with a small picnic: slices of focaccia still warm from the oven, a handful of marinated olives, and a mini wedge of Parmigiano that the vendor insisted I taste first (he was right to do so).
The market is mostly locals going about their daily routines, which made it feel authentic. And everyone was kind willing to chat or explain what something was, even if we had to mime a bit.
If you go, try to get there early. By lunchtime, it gets packed, and some of the best items sell out. Plus, the light in the morning makes the whole place glow.
4. Step Inside the Enzo Ferrari Museum
I’ll be honest I’m not a major car buff. But stepping into the Enzo Ferrari Museum still gave me chills. The experience starts before you even walk in. The building’s bright yellow, curved like the hood of a sports car, and impossible to miss. It sits right next to Enzo Ferrari’s childhood home, grounding the whole museum in a surprisingly personal backstory.
Inside, I expected a few old cars and maybe a video or two. What I found was a full-on cinematic journey. There were sleek red Ferraris from the 1950s all the way to present-day hypercars, each one polished to a mirror shine and spotlighted like a work of art. But what really got me was the film projected across the entire wall, telling Enzo’s story. It played in looped segments with operatic music swelling in the background, which somehow made the whole thing feel epic and emotional.
There are also design models, engine displays, and interactive zones where you can see how each piece fits together. It made me appreciate the craftsmanship, even as someone who doesn’t know the difference between a V6 and a V8.
If you’re a car enthusiast, you’ll probably need hours here. But even if you’re not, it’s worth stopping by just to experience how Modena honors one of its most iconic figures.
Want to go deeper? There’s a second Ferrari Museum in Maranello (near the factory and test track), which is about 30 minutes away by shuttle. It’s more focused on racing and modern performance.
5. Eat Handmade Tortellini at a Local Osteria
Food in Modena isn’t just delicious it’s sacred. And nothing represents that better than a bowl of tortellini in brodo, the city’s iconic dish. I had mine at Osteria Ermes, and it still might be the best meal of my trip.
Walking in, you immediately feel like you’ve stepped into someone’s home kitchen. No printed menus. No frills. Just shared wooden tables packed with locals talking over steaming plates of pasta. A waiter scribbled something down without asking and, five minutes later, a bowl of golden broth with delicate tortellini arrived in front of me.
The pasta was impossibly thin, folded by hand, with a filling that balanced meat and cheese so well it almost felt fluffy. The broth was rich but not greasy, comforting without being heavy. Paired with a glass of house red and crusty bread? Perfection.
What stood out most wasn’t just the food it was how it was served. You could tell this was a daily ritual for many of the people eating there. Fast, friendly, no pretense. Just real food made well.
If you want to eat like a local, this is where you go. But fair warning: the place fills up fast. I got there just before noon and snagged the last free seat.
6. Climb the Torre Ghirlandina
Every time I looked up in Modena, I saw it: Torre Ghirlandina, the city’s proud bell tower. It stands tall next to the cathedral, its white stone catching the light differently depending on the hour.
I decided to climb it one morning, curious to see what the city looked like from above. The staircase was steep and narrow, winding like a spiral seashell, with small windows giving you sneak peeks as you go. It wasn’t an easy climb definitely not for those who fear heights or tight spaces but by the time I reached the top, I was breathless for more reasons than one.
The view? All terracotta roofs, winding streets, and green patches that stretched toward the countryside. It gave me a new appreciation for the layout of Modena how compact yet layered it is. From up there, everything felt calm and ordered.
It’s not a long visit, but it’s a memorable one. And it made me feel like I earned my next scoop of gelato.
Just be sure to check the hours in advance. The tower isn’t always open, and on some days it closes in the early afternoon.
7. Discover Palazzo dei Musei
If you find yourself with a quiet afternoon in Modena or if the weather turns gray head to the Palazzo dei Musei. It’s not a single museum but a whole complex housed in a stately old building, offering a deep dive into the region’s art, archaeology, music, and history.
I started at the Estense Gallery, which is filled with Renaissance paintings, Roman busts, and even some old musical instruments. There’s a mix of grand pieces and quirky details a painting of a dog that made me smile, a set of maps showing how the region changed over centuries.
The best part? It was practically empty. I had entire rooms to myself. No jostling crowds or long lines. Just me and the quiet echo of footsteps on marble floors.
It felt like a space made for wandering and discovering at your own pace. You don’t need to be an art expert to enjoy it. Just come with curiosity and a bit of time.
If you’re traveling during peak season, this is a great way to get off the beaten track for a few hours and soak in some local culture that often gets overlooked.
8. Wander the Streets of Modena’s Historic Center
Sometimes the best way to experience a city is to put the map away and just wander and Modena is perfect for that. I spent a whole afternoon weaving through the old streets with no real destination, just following my curiosity.
The buildings are painted in soft yellows, pinks, and terracotta reds, with wooden shutters and wrought-iron balconies. Many streets are shaded by porticos, those beautiful covered walkways that give Modena its elegant charm while also being incredibly practical. Whether it’s raining or sunny, you can walk for blocks without worrying about the weather.
I stumbled upon quiet courtyards, tiny churches, and shops selling handmade ceramics or vintage books. At one point, I found a hidden alley with ivy crawling up the walls and a lone bicycle leaning against a door the kind of scene that makes you stop and smile.
There’s no shortage of gelaterias, either. I stopped at two different spots in one afternoon (strictly for research, of course). Sitting on a bench with a cone of pistachio gelato and just watching the world go by might have been one of my favorite moments in Modena.
9. Try Local Pastries: Torta Barozzi & More
If you have a sweet tooth, Modena will not disappoint. While the city is more famous for savory dishes like tortellini, its pastry scene quietly steals the show.
I had my first bite of Torta Barozzi at a tiny pasticceria tucked away behind Piazza Roma. It’s a dense, flourless chocolate cake with hints of coffee, peanuts, and a mysterious spice that I couldn’t quite place. It’s rich but not too sweet the kind of dessert that makes you close your eyes for a second after the first bite.
Torta Barozzi was invented in nearby Vignola over a century ago and is still made according to a secret recipe. Many bakeries sell it in elegant little boxes, so it makes a great edible souvenir.
I also tried bensone, a traditional Modenese breakfast pastry that’s meant to be dunked in milk or wine. It’s simple, a bit dry on its own, but surprisingly comforting.
Locals love their pastries, and every neighborhood has its go-to bakery. Mine became Pasticceria Gollini, where the counter staff were warm and patient even as I stumbled through my Italian.
10. Shop for Gourmet Souvenirs
If you’re anything like me, souvenirs should be edible. Modena offers some of the best.
After touring the balsamic vinegar producers and grazing my way through Mercato Albinelli, I had a mental checklist of what I wanted to bring home: a small bottle of aged balsamic, a wedge of Parmigiano Reggiano, and a jar of Mostarda Modenese a fruit-mustard condiment that’s sweet, spicy, and unlike anything I’d ever tasted.
Many shops in Modena specialize in local gourmet products and are happy to let you sample before you buy. One shop owner walked me through the differences between 12-year and 25-year balsamic and let me try both on tiny spoons. Another gave me tips on storing cheese for travel and vacuum-sealed everything for me.
You won’t find mass-produced items here. Instead, you’ll leave with things that feel personal and tied to place. It’s a great way to extend the memory of the trip every time I drizzled that vinegar on roasted vegetables back home, I was instantly back in Modena.
Just make sure to pack any liquids in checked luggage, especially if you’re flying.
Bonus: Where to Stay in Modena
Modena has a surprising range of accommodation for its size, and where you stay can shape your experience.
For a short visit, I loved staying in a B&B just off Piazza Grande. The central location meant I could walk everywhere the cathedral, market, restaurants and still slip back in for a midday rest.
If you’re coming to Modena for the Ferrari experience, consider staying closer to Maranello. A few hotels cater to car enthusiasts and even offer themed rooms and shuttle service to the museum.
Looking for a little indulgence? Check out Rua Frati 48, a boutique hotel inside a converted monastery. It has modern rooms, a spa, and a peaceful courtyard that feels worlds away from city life.
Bonus: Day Trips from Modena
Modena is a great hub for exploring the Emilia-Romagna region. If you have a few extra days, these nearby spots are easy to reach and offer even more flavor (literally).
Maranello is a must for Ferrari fans. You can visit the museum, tour the factory (with advance booking), and even book a short test drive if you’re feeling adventurous. Just watching the cars roll through town is fun on its own.
Parma is about an hour away by train and makes for a perfect food-focused day trip. It’s the birthplace of Parmigiano Reggiano and prosciutto di Parma. I joined a morning food tour and still dream about it.
Bologna is only 30 minutes by train and has a very different vibe younger, more chaotic, but equally charming. If you’re craving more pasta, art, or nightlife, it’s worth adding to your itinerary.
Travel Tips for Visiting Modena
- Getting There: Modena is easily reached by train from Bologna, Milan, or Florence.
- Best Time to Visit: Spring and fall for mild weather and food festivals.
- Restaurant Hours: Most restaurants close between lunch and dinner.
- Luggage Tip: Buy balsamic vinegar only if you have checked luggage.
My Modena Summary
Modena wasn’t just a stop on my itinerary it was a place that surprised me, slowed me down, and made me pay closer attention. I came for the balsamic vinegar and Ferraris, expecting a quick, charming detour. What I found instead was a city that feels like a quiet celebration of everything Italy does best: food, craftsmanship, history, and beauty.
There’s a calm confidence to Modena. It doesn’t fight for your attention. It doesn’t need to. The food is rich but not flashy, the streets are elegant without being overwhelming, and the people are warm without being showy. It reminded me that sometimes the most rewarding places aren’t the ones that scream for your attention they’re the ones that welcome you in softly, with a bowl of tortellini and a glass of local red.
If you’re planning a trip to northern Italy, make space for Modena. Even one full day here is enough to taste something special, see something unforgettable, and leave with a little more appreciation for the art of slowing down. I’d go back in a heartbeat and next time, I might stay longer.
