I still remember my first glimpse of the Dolomites. Those jagged limestone peaks rose like a fortress above soft meadows, and I knew right away this wasn’t just another mountain range. This UNESCO World Heritage site stretches across northeastern Italy, offering a mix of Alpine culture, dramatic scenery, and charming villages that look like they belong on a postcard.
If you’re planning your first trip, this guide brings together everything I’ve learned: the big name hikes like Tre Cime, the valleys where cows graze under church spires, and the little details that make the region so special. I’ll also share travel tips, itineraries, and the mistakes I made on my first trip so you don’t have to repeat them. By the end, you’ll have a clear picture of the best things to do in the Dolomites and how to enjoy them in a way that fits your style.
Tre Cime di Lavaredo
The Tre Cime loop was the very first hike I did in the Dolomites, and it set the tone for everything else. The three peaks rise like stone towers, and walking the circuit around them is both challenging and awe inspiring. The trail is about ten kilometers with a modest elevation gain, but I found the real challenge was stopping myself from pulling out my camera every five minutes. It took me almost five hours because I lingered at viewpoints and sat down for a long lunch at a riifugio, where steaming plates of pasta tasted even better with that view.
Getting there is straightforward but not always cheap: you drive up a toll road to Rifugio Auronzo, or take the shuttle bus if you prefer not to deal with parking. If you’re planning to do the hike, my best advice is to start early. By midday, the car park fills, and afternoon clouds often roll in to hide the peaks. Pack layers too the weather here changes in a heartbeat.
Seceda Ridgeline
If you’ve ever seen a photo of the Dolomites that looks like a jagged dragon’s back, chances are it was taken at Seceda. I rode the cable car up from Ortisei one afternoon and was on the ridge in less than half an hour, which felt almost unreal after so many uphill climbs elsewhere. The views stretch across the Odle range, and the spires look almost too sharp to be real. I spent a couple of hours just wandering along the ridge, pausing to watch paragliders launch into the valley below.
The hike here is gentle, more of a stroll than a workout, so it’s a great option if you’re traveling with family or just want an easy afternoon outdoors. I think the light is best later in the day when the shadows soften the edges of the mountains. Don’t rush back down, grab a drink at one of the rifugi and let the ridgeline sink in.
Lago di Braies
I’ll be honest: Lago di Braies is one of the busiest spots in the Dolomites. But the first time I arrived at sunrise, I understood why. The lake sat perfectly still, reflecting the forest and the pale cliffs around it, and the wooden boats lined up like a painting. I rented one of those rowboats and paddled across the emerald water. It felt a bit touristy, but also incredibly peaceful before the crowds arrived.
The walk around the lake only takes a couple of hours at most, and there’s a small parking lot close by. In peak summer, though, it fills up fast, and traffic restrictions sometimes apply. If you want something quieter, I’d suggest Lago di Sorapiss or even Lago di Dobbiaco, which has its own charm without the overwhelming crowds.
Alpe di Siusi (Seiser Alm)
Alpe di Siusi feels like stepping into another world. It’s Europe’s largest high alpine meadow, and in summer it’s blanketed with wildflowers and dotted with rustic huts. I rented an e bike here and spent the day cruising along rolling paths while cows grazed nearby, their bells echoing softly across the fields. Every few minutes, I’d stop to take in the jagged mountain backdrop, which makes the whole place look unreal.
Getting there takes a bit of planning. During the day, private cars aren’t allowed on the plateau, so the easiest option is to take the cable car from Ortisei or Siusi. I actually liked this because it kept the meadows quiet and free of traffic. If you want a relaxed day without steep climbs, this is the place. Whether you spend a few hours wandering or a whole day picnicking and riding, Alpe di Siusi feels like the Dolomites at their most gentle and welcoming.
Val di Funes & Santa Maddalena Church
Val di Funes might just be my favorite valley in the Dolomites. As I drove in, the Odle peaks suddenly appeared, sharp and dramatic, towering above soft green pastures. The tiny Santa Maddalena church sits quietly in the middle of it all, and it honestly felt like I had stepped into a fairytale. I parked the car, walked a little way up the hillside, and just stood there watching the late afternoon sun hit the fields.
Photographers love this spot, and it’s easy to see why. The best light is usually in the afternoon when the peaks glow and the valley is still bathed in warm sunlight. You don’t need to hike far, short walks lead to different vantage points, and each one feels like a new postcard. If you only have time for one valley drive, make it this one.
Cinque Torri
Cinque Torri (“five towers”) is more than just a group of rocky spires. When I visited, I was surprised to find old trenches and tunnels from World War I scattered around the site. Walking among them while climbers scaled the towers above me created this fascinating mix of history and adventure. It’s rare to find a place where you can learn about the past and still feel the adrenaline of the mountains around you.
You can reach Cinque Torri by chairlift from near Passo Falzarego, or hike up if you want a bit more challenge. The trails aren’t too long, and you can easily spend half a day exploring. If you’re curious about via ferrata (the fixed cable climbing routes), this is a great spot to try one with a guide. It felt special to stand in a place where nature and history meet so vividly.
Marmolada Glacier
Marmolada is called the “Queen of the Dolomites,” and I get why. At 3,343 meters, it’s the highest point in the range, and standing on the glacier, I felt like I was looking out across half the Alps. I took the cable car up from Malga Ciapela, and in minutes I was standing on a panoramic platform with turquoise lakes below and endless peaks stretching to the horizon.
It’s not just about the views, though. Marmolada also has a small museum about the First World War, which I found unexpectedly moving. The glacier itself is shrinking year by year, so seeing it now felt both incredible and a little bittersweet. If you’re visiting in summer, it’s worth adding this to your list just bring a jacket, because even in August, it’s cold up there.
Sellaronda Scenic Drive or Ski Circuit
The Sellaronda loop is one of those experiences that changes depending on the season. In summer, I drove it as a road trip, winding through passes like Gardena and Sella, with each bend revealing a new valley. I stopped often, partly because the scenery demanded it and partly because the hairpin turns left me needing a breather. The drive took me most of the day, especially with photo stops and a long lunch at a Rifugio.
In winter, the same loop transforms into a continuous ski circuit, linked entirely by lifts and runs. I haven’t skied the full loop yet, but I can imagine how exhilarating it must be to glide around the entire massif in a single day. Whether you drive or ski, the Sellaronda gives you a sense of just how vast and interconnected the Dolomites really are.
Rifugio Overnight Stay
One of the most memorable nights I spent in the Dolomites wasn’t in a hotel it was in a Rifugio. These mountain huts are dotted all over the range, and staying in one feels like being part of the mountains rather than just a visitor. I hiked in during the afternoon, dropped my backpack, and was greeted with plates of dumplings and strudel that tasted like pure comfort food.
Sleeping in a simple wooden room with other hikers, I could hear the wind outside and see stars so bright they felt close enough to touch. In the morning, I woke up to the smell of coffee and the sound of boots hitting the trail. If you want to experience the Dolomites beyond the day hikes, staying in a Rifugio is the way to do it. Just make sure you book early in peak season; they’re popular for good reason.
Paragliding from Col Raiser
I wasn’t sure if I’d have the courage, but paragliding in the Dolomites ended up being one of the highlights of my trip. Launching from Col Raiser, I strapped in with my pilot and suddenly we were running off the hillside then we were in the air, floating over valleys and forests with jagged ridges all around. It was equal parts peaceful and thrilling, and for twenty minutes, I felt like I was part of the landscape instead of just looking at it.
If you’re not into extreme sports, don’t worry: tandem flights are designed for beginners, and the pilots make it feel safe. I’d recommend it if you want a different perspective of the Dolomites. Nothing beats the feeling of gliding silently past those peaks.
Cycling the Passes
Cycling in the Dolomites is a rite of passage for many road cyclists. The climbs are tough, with endless switchbacks, but the reward is riding through some of the most beautiful mountain scenery in the world. I’m not a hardcore cyclist, so I rented an e bike for the day, and honestly, it was the best decision. It gave me the freedom to ride passes like Gardena and Sella without worrying about burning out halfway up.
Along the way, I passed groups of cyclists cheering each other on, and the sense of camaraderie was contagious. Whether you’re a seasoned rider or just looking for a fun challenge, cycling here is unforgettable. Just be prepared for changing weather and bring plenty of water. The climbs can be long, but every view is worth it.
Local Food Experience
No trip to the Dolomites would be complete without diving into Ladin cuisine. After a long day of hiking, there’s nothing better than sitting down to a plate of canederli hearty bread dumplings served in broth or with butter and cheese. Speck, the local cured ham, shows up on almost every menu, and I quickly learned it tastes even better when paired with a glass of crisp local white wine.
Dessert lovers, don’t skip apple strudel. I tried it in more rifugi than I can count, and each one had its own twist, sometimes with raisins, sometimes with extra cinnamon. Eating in the Dolomites feels comforting and satisfying, like the food is designed to refuel both your body and your spirit. For me, those meals were as much a part of the experience as the hikes themselves.
Itineraries
3 Days in the Dolomites
When I had just three days to explore, I knew I couldn’t see everything, so I focused on the highlights around Cortina d’Ampezzo. It gave me easy access to Tre Cime, Lago di Braies, and Val di Funes, three places that show off completely different sides of the Dolomites.
Day 1: Tre Cime di Lavaredo
I wanted my first hike to be a big one, so I drove straight to Tre Cime di Lavaredo. The toll road up to Rifugio Auronzo isn’t cheap, but it saves a lot of time and drops you right at the trailhead. By 8 a.m., I was already on the path with the famous three peaks rising in front of me.
The loop around them is about 10 kilometers, but it’s not just a hike it’s a journey through one stunning view after another. I stopped at Rifugio Lavaredo for coffee, then again at Rifugio Locatelli for lunch, where I sat on the terrace staring at the peaks while tucking into a steaming bowl of pasta. It took me close to five hours because I couldn’t resist all the photo stops. By the time I drove back to Cortina in the evening, my legs were tired, but I felt like I’d already had a full Dolomites experience.
Day 2: Lago di Braies + Cinque Torri
On my second morning, I set my alarm before sunrise and drove out to Lago di Braies. It’s famous and very busy but at 6 a.m. it felt calm and quiet. The water was so still that the mountains reflected perfectly, and the wooden rowboats tied up along the dock made it look like a painting. I rented one of those boats and spent half an hour paddling across the lake before the crowds arrived.
By mid morning, the car park was full, so I moved on to Cinque Torri. After a quick chairlift ride, I spent the afternoon wandering through a landscape that blends history and adventure. Old WWI trenches wind between the towers, and climbers scale the rocks above while you walk below. I loved that it wasn’t just about scenery, it was also about stories from the past. That evening, back in Cortina, I treated myself to polenta and mushrooms at a small trattoria.
Day 3: Val di Funes + Santa Maddalena
For my last day, I drove into Val di Funes, which felt like stepping into a storybook. The Odle peaks rose sharply above rolling green fields, and the tiny Santa Maddalena church sat in the middle of it all like it had been painted there. I parked and took short walks between viewpoints, each one slightly different but equally beautiful.
I stayed until late afternoon because the light in this valley gets softer and warmer as the sun drops. Watching the peaks turn golden while church bells echoed through the valley was the kind of ending that makes you promise yourself you’ll come back. And I already knew I would.
Final Thoughts on 3 Days
Three days isn’t enough to cover everything, but it’s plenty for a first taste of the Dolomites. With Tre Cime, Lago di Braies, Cinque Torri, and Val di Funes, I felt like I saw the full range: dramatic hikes, iconic lakes, mountain history, and quiet valleys. If you only have a long weekend, this itinerary will leave you tired, full of strudel, and already planning your return.
5 Days in the Dolomites
When I had five full days, I based myself in Ortisei in Val Gardena. It gave me easy access to Seceda, Alpe di Siusi, and the Sellaronda loop, while still feeling like a lively mountain town with good restaurants and cozy hotels. Here’s how I spent those days.
Day 1: Seceda Ridgeline
I took the cable car up to Seceda on my very first morning, and honestly, it was one of those views that makes you stop in your tracks. The ridgeline is sharp and dramatic, like the spine of some mythical creature, and the best part is how easy it is to reach. Within half an hour of leaving town, I was walking along trails with a panorama that felt like it should have taken days of hiking to reach.
I spent most of the day up there, wandering along the paths, stopping at rifugi for coffee, and just sitting in the grass watching paragliders launch. The light gets softer in the afternoon, so I lingered until the last cable car went down. If you only have one big view in the Dolomites, this might be the one.
Day 2: Alpe di Siusi
The next morning, I wanted something gentler, so I rented an e bike and took the cable car up to Alpe di Siusi (Seiser Alm). Cars aren’t allowed during the day, which keeps the meadow peaceful, and riding through it felt almost like floating. I pedaled past grazing cows with their bells echoing, tiny chapels tucked into fields, and wildflowers swaying in the breeze.
I stopped often, partly for photos and partly because the little huts scattered across the meadow serve hearty food. A plate of dumplings and a slice of apple strudel tasted like fuel for the soul after a morning ride. If you’re not into biking, you can walk instead. There are easy paths everywhere but I loved the freedom of covering more ground without much effort.
Day 3: Val di Funes + Rifugio Overnight
On day three, I drove into Val di Funes, which is one of the most photogenic valleys I’ve ever seen. The Odle peaks rise like a jagged wall above rolling pastures, and the tiny church of Santa Maddalena sits right in the middle of it all. I wandered between viewpoints, waited for the late afternoon light to hit the peaks, and couldn’t stop smiling at how unreal it looked.
Instead of heading back to town, I’d booked a night in a Refugio. Hiking in during the evening was less crowded, and the atmosphere felt calmer than during the day. Dinner was simple but comforting dumplings, stew, and wine and sleeping in a wooden bunk room with mountain silence all around was something I’ll never forget. Waking up to sunrise over the peaks was worth carrying the extra backpack weight.
Day 4: Sellaronda Scenic Drive
After the overnight, I picked up my car and started the Sellaronda loop. This road trip winds through four mountain passes around the Sella massif, and it’s full of hairpin turns and jaw dropping views. It’s not a loop you rush through. I stopped constantly, sometimes at official viewpoints, sometimes just at the side of the road where the view demanded it.
Halfway through, I paused at a Rifugio for lunch: polenta with cheese and mushrooms, washed down with a glass of local wine. Driving again after that was slow going, but honestly, that’s the beauty of the Sellaronda. It’s less about the destination and more about the rhythm of winding roads, dramatic valleys, and taking it all in.
Day 5: Bolzano + Slow Morning
On my last day, I wanted to take it easy. I spent the morning in Bolzano, which felt completely different from the mountain villages. The streets buzzed with markets, and the mix of Italian and Austrian culture showed up everywhere from architecture to food. I wandered with no plan, tried local wine, and grabbed one final slice of apple strudel before heading back toward my train.
Leaving the Dolomites after five days wasn’t easy, but I loved how much variety I squeezed in: dramatic ridges, peaceful meadows, road trips, and a night in a Refugio. It was just enough time to get a taste of everything, though I knew I’d be back for more.
7 Days in the Dolomites
With a week in the Dolomites, you can slow down and really soak it all in. Here’s how I spent seven days, moving between valleys, balancing big adventures with relaxed afternoons, and still leaving space for coffee, strudel, and quiet moments in between.
Day 1: Arrival in Cortina d’Ampezzo
I started in Cortina, partly because it’s easy to reach from Venice and partly because it’s such a classic Alpine base. After a long drive, I didn’t want to overdo it, so I spent the afternoon just walking around town. Cortina has that mix of chic shops and mountain charm . I grabbed a spritz in the main square and watched the evening light hit the mountains. It was the perfect soft landing before the adventure kicked off.
Day 2: Tre Cime di Lavaredo
This was my big hike day, and I set my alarm early. Driving up the toll road to Rifugio Auronzo, I reached the trailhead before most of the crowds. The full Tre Cime loop is around 10 kilometers, and while it’s not technically difficult, it’s full of moments that make you stop and stare.
I took my time, pausing at Rifugio Lavaredo for coffee, then again at Rifugio Locatelli for lunch with an unbelievable view of the peaks. The whole hike took me about five hours because I couldn’t resist detours for photos. By the time I got back to Cortina that evening, my legs were tired but my camera roll was overflowing.
Day 3: Lago di Braies + Cinque Torri
I dedicated this day to two very different experiences. Lago di Braies was first, and honestly, it’s worth the hype if you go early. At sunrise, the lake was glassy and quiet, and rowing across it felt surreal. By mid morning, though, it was packed, so I moved on.
In the afternoon, I drove toward Cinque Torri, where I combined a short hike with exploring the WWI open air museum. Walking among old trenches while climbers scaled the towers above me was a mix of history and adventure I hadn’t expected. I ended the day with a simple dinner back in Cortina polenta with mushrooms, hearty and perfect after a long day outdoors.
Day 4: Val di Funes + Rifugio Overnight
On day four, I swapped bases. Driving west, I headed into Val di Funes, which felt like a completely different Dolomites. The jagged Odle peaks rise above rolling green fields, and the little church of Santa Maddalena looks almost too perfect to be real. I lingered here for hours, watching the light shift and taking short walks to different viewpoints.
Instead of heading back to town, I booked a Rifugio overnight. Hiking in the late afternoon, I reached a mountain hut just in time for dinner, hearty dumplings and apple strudel. Sleeping high in the mountains, hearing the wind outside, and waking up to a pink sunrise over the peaks was one of my most memorable Dolomites experiences.
Day 5: Seceda Ridgeline + Alpe di Siusi
From my Rifugio, I made my way to Ortisei, another great base. The cable car up to Seceda is quick, but when you step off and see the ridgeline, it feels like you’ve landed on another planet. I walked easy trails along the spires, stopped at viewpoints, and watched paragliders sail out into the valley.
In the afternoon, I switched gears and headed to Alpe di Siusi. Renting an e bike made exploring the meadows effortless, and I loved riding between huts with the peaks in the background. It was a full day, but the combination of rugged ridges in the morning and gentle meadows in the afternoon felt perfectly balanced.
Day 6: Sellaronda Scenic Drive + Marmolada
This was my big road trip day. The Sellaronda loop winds around the Sella massif, passing through mountain passes like Gardena, Sella, and Pordoi. The roads are full of switchbacks, but the views are worth every turn. I stopped often, sometimes for photos, sometimes just to catch my breath from the dizzying drive.
Midway through the loop, I took the cable car up to Marmolada, the highest peak in the Dolomites. Standing on the glacier at over 3,300 meters, I could see layer upon layer of mountains fading into the distance. It was cold and windy, even in summer, but the feeling of being on the “roof” of the Dolomites was unforgettable.
Day 7: Paragliding + Bolzano
For my last day, I wanted something a little different. In the morning, I booked a tandem paragliding flight from Col Raiser. Running off the hillside with the pilot and suddenly soaring above the valley was surreal, peaceful and exhilarating all at once. It gave me a perspective I’d never had on the mountains.
In the afternoon, I drove to Bolzano, which has a very different feel from the high valleys. I wandered through the old town, browsed the market stalls, and treated myself to one last strudel and coffee before heading back toward the airport the next morning. It was the perfect way to come back down to earth after a week in the peaks.
Final Thoughts on a 7 Day Dolomites Trip
Seven days gave me the chance to see the famous spots Tre Cime, Lago di Braies, Seceda but also to slow down, stay in a Rifugio, and even try something as adventurous as paragliding. What I loved most was the variety: one day I was hiking rugged ridges, the next I was cycling through meadows, and the next I was standing on a glacier. If you can spare a week, you’ll leave feeling like you truly experienced the Dolomites, not just passed through.
Which Dolomites Itinerary Is Right for You?
I’ve done the Dolomites on everything from quick weekends to a full week, and the best plan really depends on how much time you have and what kind of traveler you are. Here’s how I’d break it down:
3 Days: A Taster Trip
If you’re short on time or adding the Dolomites onto a bigger Italy trip, three days works surprisingly well. You’ll cover the big icons Tre Cime, Lago di Braies, Val di Funes and leave with a clear sense of why everyone falls in love with this region. Expect busy days, early mornings, and a lot of driving, but it’s worth it for that first taste.
5 Days: A Balanced Adventure
With five days, you can slow down. You’ll still get the classics, but you can also add experiences that make the Dolomites feel more personal: riding an e-bike through Alpe di Siusi, staying overnight in a Rifugio, or taking your time on the Sellaronda drive. This is the sweet spot if you want both adventure and downtime.
7 Days: A Deep Dive
A full week lets you stretch out and feel like you’re actually living in the Dolomites for a while. You’ll fit in the big hikes, the meadows, and the scenic drives, but also extras like Marmolada or even paragliding. Seven days gave me time for quiet mornings, long meals, and spontaneous detours. If this is a bucket list trip, or you’re traveling all the way from outside Europe, give yourself a week.
My Advice
If you’re still undecided, here’s how I’d put it:
- Go for 3 days if you want a taste.
- Choose 5 days if you want balance hikes, meadows, and time to breathe.
- Pick 7 days if you want to leave with no regrets.
No matter how long you stay, you’ll probably leave already thinking about your next trip. That’s exactly what happened to me.
Where to Stay in the Dolomites (By Itinerary Length)
One of the hardest parts of planning a Dolomites trip is figuring out where to base yourself. The region is spread out, and driving between valleys always takes longer than you think because of winding roads and passes. Here’s how I’d choose, based on how many days you have:
If You Have 3 Days: Stay in Cortina d’Ampezzo
When I only had three days, Cortina was the most practical base. It’s close to Tre Cime di Lavaredo, Lago di Braies, and Cinque Torri, which means you spend less time in the car and more time outdoors. Cortina itself has a lively center with restaurants, cafés, and a bit of luxury shopping, so evenings feel fun rather than sleepy.
Why it works: Centrally located for the eastern Dolomites, easy access to iconic hikes and lakes.
My tip: Stay in town if you want an atmosphere, or just outside if you prefer quiet.
If You Have 5 Days: Stay in Ortisei (Val Gardena)
Within five days, I based myself in Ortisei, and it was the perfect balance. The town feels cozy and walkable, with cafés, restaurants, and lifts right from the center. From Ortisei, you can be on the Seceda ridgeline or up on Alpe di Siusi within minutes, and the Sellaronda drive is right on your doorstep. It also makes Val di Funes accessible for a day trip.
Why it works: Easy access to cable cars, family friendly, and well connected to hikes.
My tip: Book accommodation early in Ortisei is popular and fills up fast in summer.
If You Have 7 Days: Split Between Cortina and Ortisei
With a full week, I liked splitting my time between Cortina d’Ampezzo and Ortisei. Starting in Cortina made sense for the eastern highlights Tre Cime, Lago di Braies, Cinque Torri and then moving to Ortisei gave me time for Seceda, Alpe di Siusi, Val di Funes, and the Sellaronda.
Last night, I stayed in Bolzano before catching my train. It was nice to transition from mountain quiet to city buzz, and it made leaving the Dolomites a little easier.
Why it works: Cuts down on long drives and lets you experience two very different valleys.
My tip: If you don’t want to move hotels mid trip, Ortisei works as a single base for seven days too. You’ll just have longer day trips to the eastern side.
Practical Tips
I’ve learned a few lessons the hard way, so here are the ones I’d pass on:
- Pack for every season. Even in July, I needed a rain jacket and warm layers. Afternoon storms can sweep in quickly, and mornings can be chilly at altitude.
- Start hikes early. Not only do you avoid parking headaches, but the light is better, and you’re off the trails before thunderstorms roll in.
- Book rifugi in advance. They fill up fast in summer. If you forget, you might be stuck hiking back down in the dark.
- Respect the pace of mountain travel. Distances look short on a map, but winding roads and switchbacks make journeys slower than you’d expect.
- Try the local food. A bowl of barley soup or a plate of dumplings tastes ten times better after a hike. I stopped trying to count how many slices of apple strudel I ate and I don’t regret a single one.
Most of all, don’t try to see everything. The Dolomites are vast, and it’s tempting to tick off every famous spot, but the real magic comes from slowing down watching the peaks change color at sunset, or sipping coffee on a Rifugio terrace with no rush to be anywhere else.
Conclusion
The Dolomites are one of those places that stay with you long after you’ve left. For me, it wasn’t just the hikes or the views, it was the small details too. Watching the peaks turn pink at sunrise, sitting in a Rifugio with a plate of dumplings after a long day, or driving through a valley and stumbling across a tiny church framed by mountains.
If you’re planning your trip, my best advice is to slow down. You’ll never see it all in one visit, and that’s okay. Pick a few areas, spend time there, and let yourself be surprised by the moments in between. That’s when the Dolomites really shine.
