The first time I stepped off the train in Riomaggiore, I didn’t even make it past the platform before I was caught up in the scene. The salty air was thick with the sound of waves crashing against dark rocks below, and the hillside in front of me looked like it had been painted by hand: pastel houses stacked in uneven rows, shutters thrown open, laundry swaying in the breeze. For a moment, I just stood still, trying to take it all in.
What surprised me most wasn’t just how photogenic it was, but how alive the village felt. Fishermen were pulling in their nets at the harbor, locals were leaning in doorways chatting, and somewhere up the street the smell of warm focaccia made me instantly hungry. Trails cut off into the cliffs, hinting at adventures just waiting for me if I kept walking.
If you’re planning a trip to Cinque Terre and the Ligurian coast, I want this guide to feel like you’re here with me. I’ll share the easiest ways to get between the villages, what stood out to me in each one, and how I pieced together my days without rushing. Whether you’re staying overnight or just dropping in for a single day, I’ll also include a few nearby towns that added unexpected magic to my trip.
Quick Planning at a Glance
One of the first questions I asked myself was when to visit. Summer might seem obvious, but the narrow lanes get crowded quickly and the heat makes the steep steps feel endless. I found spring (April to June) and early fall (September to October) to be a sweet spot: the weather was warm enough for swims, but cool enough for hiking, and the evenings still had that lazy seaside charm without the crush of peak tourism.
As for how long to stay, I’ll be honest: even one day is worth it if that’s all you can manage. I once squeezed in a whirlwind visit on a day trip and still came away smiling, with salt in my hair and pesto on my shirt. But two or three days gave me space to slow down. I could linger over a long lunch, hike without watching the clock, and actually feel the rhythm of each village once the day trippers left. If you’re lucky enough to have four or five days, you can even branch out to nearby Portovenere or Portofino without feeling rushed.
Getting there is easier than I expected. La Spezia, the nearby city, works as the main transport hub. Almost every regional train connects through here, and ferries also set out from its harbor in summer. It became my launch pad: I’d grab a coffee at the station and be in one of the villages within minutes.
And then there are the highlights the little things that stick in my memory long after I left. Hiking a stretch of the Blue Trail where vineyards spill down the cliffs, seeing the villages from the deck of a boat with sea spray on my face, eating anchovies so fresh they tasted like the ocean itself, and catching a sunset in Manarola or Vernazza that made me stop talking mid sentence. These were the moments that made the trip feel less like sightseeing and more like being part of the coast, even if just for a few days.
Essential Practical Info
Getting There
Most people arrive in Cinque Terre through Pisa or Genoa. Both airports are well connected, and from there, it’s about an hour and a half to two hours by train. For me, Pisa felt easiest since the airport has a direct link into the Italian rail network, but Genoa is just as convenient if you’re coming from the north. Either way, you’ll almost certainly pass through La Spezia, the main hub just south of the villages. From La Spezia, regional trains run so frequently that I never felt stressed about catching one during the day. They arrive every 15 minutes or so, and within half an hour you can be in any of the five towns.
Getting Around
Once you’re there, the train is the simplest way to hop between villages. It’s quick, cheap, and drops you right in the heart of each town. But my favorite memories weren’t on rails. In summer, I tried the ferries, and that was when I finally saw why people call Cinque Terre magical. Watching the villages appear one by one from the water pastel houses clinging to cliffs, church towers poking above the rooftops gave me a perspective I never got from land. Hiking is the other big option, but it does take planning. Some trails close after heavy rain or during maintenance, so before lacing up my shoes I always checked the official park website or asked at the station. It saved me from a few frustrating detours.
The Cinque Terre Card
If you plan to move around a lot, the Cinque Terre Card is worth considering. It covers access to the famous Blue Trail and also includes unlimited train rides between the villages for one or two days. I bought mine right at the station in La Spezia, but you can also get it online in advance. It felt freeing not to worry about buying separate tickets every time I jumped on the train.
Trail Rules and Closures
One of the most talked about paths is the Via dell’Amore, a short cliffside walk between Riomaggiore and Manarola. It had been closed for years, but parts of it recently reopened with timed entry tickets. Because numbers are limited, tickets often sell out, so it’s something to plan ahead if walking that path is on your list. For the rest of the trails, rules are simple: wear proper shoes, stick to marked paths, and be prepared for steep climbs that can feel tougher than they look on a map.
Staying Safe and Traveling Thoughtfully
The hiking routes here aren’t difficult in a technical sense, but they are rugged. Some steps are uneven and carved from stone centuries ago, so I was glad I brought proper walking shoes. The stretch up to Corniglia is especially memorable: more than 350 steps from the train station to reach the village perched high above the sea. Thankfully, there’s a small shuttle bus if climbing stairs isn’t your thing.
Because this is a fragile landscape, with vineyards terraced into cliffs by hand over centuries, it’s important to treat it with care. I tried to stick to official paths, carry a refillable water bottle instead of buying plastic, and choose small trattorias run by families rather than quick tourist cafés. It felt good to know I was giving something back to the community instead of just passing through.
Exploring the Five Villages
Riomaggiore
Riomaggiore was where I began my Cinque Terre journey, and it set the mood instantly. The station spits you out through a tunnel decorated with murals, and when you emerge you’re right in the middle of a jumble of tall houses painted in faded shades of coral and yellow. The harbor is small but lively, with boats pulled up on ramps that double as streets. I remember buying a paper cone of fried calamari from a tiny kiosk, then sitting on the rocks watching kids jump into the sea while older fishermen tended to their nets nearby. If you want a quieter moment, climb the steep alleys that zig zag up behind the main street; they eventually lead to viewpoints where you can catch your breath and look back over the roofs and the sea beyond.
Manarola
Manarola is the village that gets plastered on postcards, and I can see why. The entire town seems to cling to a cliff, spilling down toward a natural harbor where swimmers sun themselves on flat rocks before diving into the water. I visited just before sunset and it was one of those moments you don’t forget easily, the houses glowing orange, the sea turning deep blue, and the chatter of people perched on every available ledge with wine glasses in hand. If you take the short path toward the Nessun Dorma bar, you’ll find both an unbeatable view and the chance to sip a glass of Sciacchetrà, the local dessert wine. I also wandered up into the vineyards one morning, where stone terraces and narrow trails reminded me how much effort goes into cultivating grapes in this dramatic landscape.
Corniglia
Corniglia feels like the quiet soul of Cinque Terre. Unlike the others, it sits high above the water on a hilltop, which means you have to climb over 350 steps from the station (or take the little shuttle bus if your legs protest). When I finally reached the top, the pace shifted immediately. The narrow streets were less crowded, and in the main piazza I lingered over a simple lunch of trofie al pesto while locals played cards in the shade. From the viewpoints around town, the sea stretched endlessly in both directions, and I could trace the coastline toward Manarola and Vernazza. I liked that Corniglia didn’t feel like it was putting on a show; it was more about quiet balconies, sleepy cats, and long conversations over coffee.
Vernazza
Vernazza is probably the most photographed of the five villages, and walking into its harbor for the first time felt like stepping into one of those iconic images. A small sandy beach sits right at the foot of the square, where children paddle in the shallow water and fishing boats bob against the dock. I climbed up to the Doria Castle tower, which costs just a few euros, and the view was worth every step: terraced vineyards on one side, the village clustered around the harbor below, and the open sea stretching out in front. Later that evening, I stayed in the square as the day trippers faded away. The golden light caught the bell tower and the harbor grew quiet except for the sound of waves slapping against boats; it felt like Vernazza had finally exhaled.
Monterosso al Mare
Monterosso surprised me the most because it feels so different from the other four. It’s bigger, flatter, and has something the rest don’t: a proper beach. After clambering through steep lanes in the other villages, I loved kicking off my shoes here and sinking into the sand. Families set up umbrellas for the day, kids ran back and forth with gelato, and swimmers floated lazily in the turquoise water. Monterosso is split into two sections, the newer beachfront and the older medieval town connected by a tunnel. I used it as my base for a couple of nights, and it worked perfectly. The restaurants offered plenty of variety, from simple trattorias to spots serving fresh anchovy dishes (a local specialty I developed a serious craving for). In the evenings, I joined the locals on the seaside promenade, strolling slowly with a cone of pistachio gelato while the sun disappeared into the horizon.
Top Experiences Beyond the Villages
For me, Cinque Terre wasn’t just about hopping from one postcard perfect harbor to the next. It was about slowing down and letting certain experiences sink in. Here are the ones that really stood out.
Hike the Blue Trail
The Blue Trail (Sentiero Azzurro) is probably the most famous walk in Cinque Terre, and with good reason. Even if you don’t have the energy or time to do the full stretch, the section between Vernazza and Monterosso is unforgettable. The path winds up and down along the cliffs, with vines on one side and the sea sparkling below on the other. I remember pausing often, not because I was tired, but because I couldn’t stop taking in the views. The walk took me a little under two hours at an easy pace, but I gave myself longer just to enjoy it.
Take a ferry ride
I loved the trains for their convenience, but the ferries gave me the perspective I’ll remember most. Standing at the rail as the boat pulled out of La Spezia, the coastline slowly revealed itself: pastel houses balanced on cliffs, bell towers peeking out above rooftops, and waves crashing at the base of old stone walls. Each village looked different from the water, almost like it was putting on a new outfit. If you can, time a ferry ride for late afternoon when the sun slants across the cliffs; it’s a view that no photo really captures.
Wine tasting in the vineyards
Manarola and Riomaggiore are surrounded by terraced vineyards that feel like they defy gravity. One afternoon, I joined a small vineyard walk and finally understood just how much work goes into every bottle of Sciacchetrà, the region’s golden, honeyed dessert wine. The farmer poured me a small glass on a terrace overlooking the sea, and I remember thinking it was one of those moments that can’t be recreated anywhere else in the world. Even if you’re not usually into wine, the setting alone makes it worth it.
Swimming in hidden coves
Most people crowd onto Monterosso’s big beach, and it’s great if you want that classic umbrella and sunbed experience. But what I loved were the smaller coves tucked between rocks, where the water was so clear I could see fish darting below. Near Monterosso and around Corniglia, you’ll find rocky ledges that double as natural diving boards. Bring reef shoes if you can. The rocks are sharp and a lightweight towel, because once you dip into that turquoise water you’ll want to stay for a while.
Sunset in Manarola
If there’s one memory I keep replaying, it’s sunset. In Vernazza, I bought a slice of focaccia, climbed up to the castle tower, and watched the harbor slowly fall into shadow as the sky turned pink. In Manarola, I sat on the rocks with a picnic and a glass of wine while the houses above me glowed as if lit from within. Both places reminded me that sometimes the best thing to do is nothing at all, just sit, breathe, and let the view take over.
Sample Itineraries
I know it can feel overwhelming to plan with so many moving parts. Here’s how I pieced together my days in Cinque Terre, from a quick hit to a leisurely stay.
1 Day in Cinque Terre
If you only have one day, you’ll want to start early. I caught a morning train from La Spezia to Riomaggiore, which meant I had the harbor to myself before most of the tour groups arrived. I wandered the alleys for a bit, stopped for a coffee, and watched the boats being lowered into the water. From there, I hopped to Manarola, where lunch overlooking the terraces was one of my trip highlights: a plate of fresh seafood pasta, a glass of crisp white wine, and views that made me linger longer than planned.
In the afternoon, I headed to Vernazza. If you’ve got the energy, climb up to the Doria Castle tower for one of the best viewpoints over the harbor. By the time I reached Monterosso, the heat of the day had faded and the beach was calling. I swam until sunset, rinsed the salt off, and ended the evening with dinner along the promenade. It made for a long day, but with trains running so frequently I never felt rushed, just happily tired.
2 Days in Cinque Terre
Two days gave me a much better rhythm. On the first day, I followed a version of the one-day loop, but instead of heading back to La Spezia, I stayed overnight in Vernazza. That one choice changed everything. After the day-trippers left, the piazza quieted down, lights came on in the harbor, and I felt like I finally saw the village breathe. Dinner was slower, the wine flowed, and I walked back to my guesthouse to the sound of waves echoing up the narrow lanes.
Day two was all about Corniglia, the often-overlooked middle village. I tackled the long staircase in the morning (there’s also a shuttle if you’d rather save your legs) and rewarded myself with a lazy lunch in the piazza trofie pasta with pesto, eaten slowly while I watched. In the afternoon, I caught a ferry that swung back to Manarola, timing it so I arrived just before sunset. Sitting on the rocks with locals and travelers alike, I realized how different the coast feels when you give it an extra day.
3–5 Days and Beyond
With three days or more, Cinque Terre opens up in the best way. I dedicated one full day to hiking the Blue Trail, breaking it into sections and giving myself permission to stop whenever I wanted. Sometimes it was for a swim, other times just to sit in the shade and snack on focaccia I’d tucked into my bag. Another day I took a boat trip to Portovenere. It felt like a hidden bonus: the harbor painted in rows of tall houses, the dramatic church of San Pietro perched on the rocks, and quieter lanes that let me catch my breath.
By the fourth day, I was ready to stretch further afield. I hopped a train north to Portofino and Camogli, two towns that showed me a very different side of Liguria. Portofino was polished and glamorous, while Camogli had a relaxed, working-fisherman vibe that I found even more appealing.
The biggest gift of staying longer, though, was the pace. I didn’t feel guilty about sleeping in, taking long lunches, or spending an afternoon doing nothing but sitting on a balcony with a book. Those pauses between hikes, ferries, and photo stops ended up being some of the moments I treasure most from the trip.
Beyond Cinque Terre: Ligurian Coast Favorites
As much as I adored the five villages, stepping just outside them showed me another side of Liguria.
Portovenere was a highlight: its row of tall, colorful houses along the waterfront looked like a painted backdrop, and the small church perched on the rocks felt like it was guarding the entrance to the sea. I also took a short boat ride to Palmaria Island, where trails and quiet beaches made me forget the bustle of Cinque Terre completely.
Portofino had a different energy. Yes, it’s famous for yachts and luxury boutiques, but if you walk beyond the harbor you’ll find scenic coastal paths that are surprisingly quiet. I hiked up to Castello Brown, where the view over the bay was worth every step.
Camogli stole my heart with its working fisherman vibe. The houses were painted in warm, faded colors, and the long pebble beach stretched out beneath them. I had one of my favorite seafood meals here, nothing fancy, just grilled fish at a trattoria run by the same family for decades.
And then there’s Sestri Levante, with its two bays. One is lively with boats and cafés, the other calm and perfect for swimming. Spending an afternoon here gave me exactly the kind of balance I wanted after days of climbing stairs and hiking trails.
What to Eat & Drink
Liguria is the birthplace of pesto, and I’ll never forget the first plate of trofie pasta tossed with basil sauce, potatoes, and green beans. It tasted fresher than any version I’d tried at home. Anchovies are another local pride, served fried, marinated, or baked into focaccia. Speaking of focaccia, it became my daily ritual to be soft, chewy, and drizzled with olive oil or sprinkled with rosemary. For dessert, I treated myself to a glass of Sciacchetrà, that sweet golden wine made from grapes grown on terraces I had hiked past earlier in the week. It was the perfect way to tie together food and place.
Packing & Tips
I quickly learned that packing light but smart makes life easier here. Comfortable walking shoes are non negotiable even short strolls involve stairs or uneven stone steps. I always kept swimwear and a lightweight towel in my bag because you never know when a rocky ledge will tempt you into the water. A refillable water bottle came in handy since tap water is safe to drink, and carrying cash made small purchases at cafés or shuttle buses simple. Lastly, bring a power bank. My phone battery drained faster than usual between photos, maps, and train schedules.
Final Thoughts
What I loved most about Cinque Terre wasn’t just the famous views or the pastel villages. It was how time seemed to shift once I arrived. Days weren’t about rushing from one attraction to the next, but about eating slowly, walking trails at my own pace, and watching the sun slip into the sea without worrying about the clock.
Whether you only have one day or you’re lucky enough to spend a week, you’ll leave with the sound of waves in your ears, the taste of pesto on your tongue, and the memory of those painted houses lodged in your mind. That’s what stayed with me long after my train pulled away, not a checklist of sights, but the rhythm of a coast that knows how to make you slow down.
