The first time I drove the winding road toward Dhërmi, the sea appeared all at once, as if the coastline had been holding its breath until that exact moment. One turn, and suddenly there it was a long, calm stretch of blue meeting pale cliffs and scattered white houses. The air smelled of warm pine and salt, the kind of scent that makes you slow down without thinking.
Dhërmi isn’t the showiest place on the Albanian Riviera, and maybe that’s why it feels so easy to like. Most days fall into a rhythm: quiet mornings in small coves, lazy lunches by the water, and evenings where the sky fades into soft orange and everything feels unhurried.
If this is your first trip, this guide is here to make things simple. Dhërmi is small, but it doesn’t always work the way you expect. Beaches that look close aren’t always walkable, the old village is beautiful but steep, and buses follow their own schedules when they feel like it.
I learned most of this the long way waiting for transport that never came, choosing the wrong paths, figuring out where the best water and light were after a lot of trial and error.
So instead of a list of pretty places, you’ll find the practical things I wish I’d known earlier: which beaches actually fit your style, how to move around without stress, which viewpoints are worth the climb, and where to go when you just want a good meal by the sea.
It’s the guide I would have wanted before my first visit, and hopefully the one that makes your trip smoother from the start.
Dhërmi at a Glance
Dhërmi sits on a beautiful stretch of the Albanian Riviera, between Vlorë and Himarë, and it has two very different sides. Down by the water is the beachfront area where most people stay long, pebbly shoreline, small hotels, beach bars, and an easy, holiday pace.
Just above it, the old village clings to the hillside, all stone houses and winding paths that feel far older and calmer, even though it’s only a five-minute drive away.
People come here for simple, slow days: morning swims, relaxed beach afternoons, and evenings where the sky fades into soft gold. It’s great for couples, anyone who enjoys a quiet coastal break, and travelers who like places that don’t shout for attention.
The best time to visit is late spring or early autumn, when the weather is warm but the crowds haven’t fully arrived. You can fly into Tirana and drive down in about four hours, or come via Corfu by ferry to Sarandë and continue north.
However you reach it, Dhërmi immediately gives off that understated Mediterranean feeling pine trees, whitewashed walls, clear water, and mornings that naturally start a little slower.
Getting to Dhërmi: All the Ways to Reach the Riviera
Most people reach Dhërmi by car, and it really is the easiest way to get around. The drive from Tirana takes around four hours, with the most memorable stretch being the climb over the Llogara Pass. The road twists through thick pine forests before opening into wide views of the sea far below beautiful, but not the place to rush.
If you’re coming from Vlorë or Sarandë, the journey is shorter and follows the coastline, which makes the last part especially scenic. It’s worth filling up your tank before leaving either city, and if you’re staying in the old village, be prepared for narrow, steep streets that aren’t friendly to larger cars.
Buses and minibuses do run, though they follow their own loose schedule. In summer they’re fairly reliable, but the rest of the year you might find yourself waiting longer than expected. If you’re visiting in shoulder season, it’s good to stay flexible or plan to grab a taxi from Himarë or Vlorë if you need to.
Private transfers are a stress free alternative, especially if you’re arriving late or don’t feel comfortable driving mountain roads. They’re common between Dhërmi and larger cities like Tirana or Vlorë, and while they cost more than a bus, they take the guesswork out of the journey.
Dhërmi’s Best Beaches
Dhërmi has a handful of beaches, each with its own feel. The main one, Dhërmi Beach, is long and easy to reach, lined with restaurants and beach bars.
Even in peak season it rarely feels overcrowded because you can always wander farther along the shore to find space. The water gets deep quickly, which gives it that rich blue color the area is known for.
A few minutes away, Drymades Beach has a slightly softer atmosphere, wider sand-and-pebble stretches, quieter coves, and incredibly clear water around the rocky edges. It’s a favorite for families, swimmers, and anyone who likes a more laidback setting.
If you’re up for something different, Gjipe Beach sits between dramatic canyon walls and can be reached either by boat or by a dusty hike. It feels remote in the best way. Gramma Bay, accessible only by boat, is even quieter just cliffs, untouched water, and no facilities at all.
If you have a couple of days, it’s worth splitting your time between Dhërmi Beach and Drymades. They’re close, but the experience at each one is different enough that your days won’t feel repetitive.
Best Things to Do in Dhërmi
Start Your Day on Dhërmi Beach
Dhërmi Beach is usually where your days begin, not because it’s the “main” beach but because it has a calmness in the morning that’s easy to slip into. Before 10 AM, the water turns almost glasslike, and the pebbles under your feet feel cool from the night air.
If you arrive around this time, you’ll catch the beach before the music starts playing and before the heat builds. It’s a lovely window when locals take their first swim, older couples stroll along the shoreline, and most beach bars are still waking up.
If you’re sensitive to pebbles, water shoes help a lot, but otherwise this is one of the easiest spots to settle in, especially if you like having cafés and restaurants close by.
Spend an Afternoon Swimming at Drymades
Drymades has a softer atmosphere compared to Dhërmi Beach, and it becomes even prettier as the day goes on. The wide shoreline makes it feel less crowded, and the water seems to take on different colors depending on the hour, bright turquoise by early afternoon, deeper blue as the sun starts dropping.
The coves at the far ends are especially worth the walk; the water there is incredibly clear and calmer, and it’s where you’ll find snorkelers drifting slowly between rocks. It’s a great place for families too, thanks to the shallow stretches near some cafés.
If you want the best photos, come mid to late afternoon when the light is gentle and the water looks almost luminous.
Wander Dhërmi Old Town
Up on the hillside, the old village feels like a completely different world from the beach. The stone paths twist between houses that look like they’ve been standing for centuries, and every now and then the lanes open to small squares framed with bougainvillea.
The air is cooler up here, the pace slower, and you’ll probably hear more birds than people. Two small churches St. Mary Monastery and St. Spyridon punctuates the village, each offering wide views over the coastline.
Getting around does require a bit of effort because the village is steep, so it’s worth wearing decent shoes, especially if you’re visiting in the heat. Late afternoon is the nicest time to explore, when the light softens and the stone walls start to glow.
Drive to Llogara National Park
Just above Dhërmi, the landscape changes abruptly as you enter Llogara National Park. One moment you’re on the coast; the next, you’re surrounded by tall pines and cooler mountain air. Even if you’re not a hiker, the drive is worth doing simply for the lookouts along the way to places where the whole Riviera opens up beneath you.
If you have time, stop for a short forest walk or a picnic in one of the shaded areas. Restaurants in the park serve hearty, traditional dishes, and they’re a nice break from the coastal menus. It’s the kind of half day trip that resets your senses after too many hours in the sun.
Sunset Drinks at Luciano or Yacht Club
Sunset in Dhërmi is one of the day’s gentle rituals. People drift toward the beachfront bars with sandy feet and sunwarmed shoulders, and the sky often turns an apricot shade that reflects beautifully on the water.
Luciano and Yacht Club are two of the most popular spots for this hour, not because they’re fancy, but because they sit right at that perfect angle where the sun drops directly in front of you. In July and August they can get busy, so booking ahead helps, but even standing along the beach with a drink in hand feels special.
Long Lunches & Simple Coastal Food
Dhërmi’s food scene isn’t about fine dining; it’s about fresh, straightforward dishes that taste best when you’re hungry from swimming. Grilled fish, lightly fried calamari, stuffed peppers, big plates of seaside salads, local olives, and cold white wine are the things you’ll see everywhere, and they rarely disappoint.
Lunch tends to stretch out naturally here, especially if you find a place with shade and a view of the water. It’s the perfect way to break up a day without doing too much planning.
Nightlife in High Season
For most of the year, Dhërmi is a quiet place where nightlife means lingering over dinner or taking a late walk along the beach. But in July and August, beach bars turn up the music and the evenings can run long.
It’s not a full on party town, but there’s enough energy to make the nights feel lively. If you prefer early mornings and peaceful sleep, choose accommodation a little further from the main beachfront.
Where to Stay: Old Town vs. Beachfront
Where you stay in Dhërmi shapes your whole trip. The old village and the beachfront are only a few minutes apart, but they feel like completely different places.
The old village is all stone houses, narrow paths, and quiet evenings. It’s cooler at night thanks to the hillside breeze, and the atmosphere is peaceful in a way the beachfront can’t quite match. It does come with some effort, though the streets are steep, and getting around in the heat can take a bit of energy.
If you enjoy staying somewhere with character and don’t mind the climbs, it’s a lovely choice.
The beachfront, on the other hand, is all about convenience. You can walk everywhere to the beach, cafés, restaurants without thinking twice. It’s livelier, especially in July and August, and you never have to deal with uphill walks after dinner or a swim. If you want an easy, no-fuss stay where the sea is right there, this is the better fit.
Dhërmi offers a mix of small guesthouses, modern seaside hotels, and a few boutique spots. In peak season the best places fill quickly, so booking ahead makes a big difference.
Sample Dhërmi Itineraries
1 Day in Dhërmi
If you only have a day, start early at Dhërmi Beach while the water is calm and the crowds haven’t arrived. A swim here first thing feels like a reset before the heat sets in. After drying off, wander to one of the seaside restaurants for a long, unhurried lunch, the kind where you order grilled fish, a cold drink, and take your time.
When the afternoon light softens, head up to the old village. The climb is worth it for the views alone, and the stone paths look especially pretty at this hour. End the day back at the beach for sunset drinks and a simple dinner by the water.
2 Days in Dhërmi
Two days give you room to breathe. Spend the first exploring Dhërmi Beach and the old village at a relaxed pace, dipping in and out of the sea and taking your time with meals. On your second day, head to Drymades, which has a different feel altogether, wider, calmer, and great for spending a whole afternoon.
If you have the energy earlier in the day, walk the Mills Trail for an easy dose of nature. If not, save your energy for a sunset boat trip, which is one of the nicest ways to see this part of the Riviera.
3 Days in Dhërmi
Three days lets you see the best of the area without rushing. Spend your first day settling into Dhërmi Beach, finding your favorite spot for swimming, and easing into local routines. On day two, take a longer boat trip that includes sea caves and some of the hidden coves you can only reach from the water.
These tend to be the memories that stay with people. On day three, drive up to Llogara National Park for cooler air and sweeping coastal views. After lunch in the forest or a short walk, come back down to the beach for a slow, lazy afternoon that rounds off the trip.
Practical Tips You’ll Be Glad to Know
Money matters are straightforward in Dhërmi. Most restaurants and hotels accept card payments, but smaller beach bars and sunbed rentals often prefer cash, so it’s good to keep some on hand just in case.
The beaches here are pebbly rather than sandy, and while many people walk right in, water shoes make things much more comfortable if you’re sensitive to sharp stones.
Transportation can be unpredictable outside the peak summer months. Buses run, but not always when you expect them to, and it’s normal to wait a little longer or see schedules shift. If you’re visiting in May, June, or September and you’re on a tight plan, a taxi from Vlorë or Himarë can save you some stress.
Shade isn’t guaranteed either. Sunbeds and umbrellas book up quickly in July and August, especially by late morning, so arriving earlier gives you more choice and spares you the midday scramble.
And if you’re planning to visit the old village, keep in mind that it’s steep charming, beautiful, but steep. On hot days, a quick taxi ride from the beachfront saves you a lot of sweating and lets you enjoy the village without starting your walk already exhausted.
When to Visit Dhërmi
Dhërmi is one of those places where the mood changes dramatically with the seasons, so timing your visit makes a big difference. Late spring and early autumn roughly May, June, and September are the sweet spots.
The weather is warm enough for long beach days, the water is inviting, and you still get that sense of space that disappears in peak season. Restaurants are open, the sea is calm, and you can walk into most places without a reservation.
July and August are a different story. This is when Dhërmi feels its busiest and most energetic. The beach bars turn up the music, parking gets tight, and the long stretch of coastline fills with families, couples, and groups of friends. If you enjoy a lively atmosphere and don’t mind the heat, it can be fun just expect higher prices and more crowds.
From October to April, Dhërmi slows down almost completely. Many beach businesses close, transport becomes less predictable, and the village takes on a sleepy, offseason quiet. It’s still beautiful, especially if you like hiking or exploring without people around, but it’s not ideal for swimming or relying on full services.
Winter storms can make the sea rough, and evenings get chilly. For most travelers, the shoulder season months remain the best balance.
Best Day Trips from Dhërmi
Dhërmi is a great base because so many beautiful places sit just a short drive or boat ride away. One of the easiest trips is to Himarë, a lovely coastal town only 25 minutes south. It has a gentle promenade, good seafood spots, and a slightly more local feel than Dhërmi. It’s the kind of place you come for a slow lunch and a relaxed walk afterward.
If you’re up for something more adventurous, make time for Gjipe Beach. You can reach it by hiking down a dusty trail or by taking a small boat from Dhërmi. The beach is tucked between towering canyon walls, and the contrast between the cliffs and the bright water makes it feel almost otherworldly. It isn’t the easiest place to reach, but that’s exactly why it feels special.
Another great option is Llogara National Park, which sits just above Dhërmi. The drive alone is worth it one minute you’re on the Riviera, the next you’re surrounded by pine forests and crisp mountain air.
You can stop for viewpoints, go for a short walk among the trees, or sit down for a hearty meal at one of the traditional restaurants in the park.
For a longer outing, especially if you have a car, you can continue south toward Sarandë and Ksamil. It’s a full-day trip, but the drive is scenic and the coastline around Ksamil has some of the brightest water in Albania. It’s a long day, but doable if you leave early and don’t mind a bit of time on the road.
Final Thoughts
Dhërmi is the kind of place that doesn’t try to win you over quickly. It settles in slowly, the way a good book does one quiet morning, one swim, one simple meal at a time.
You start to fall into its rhythm without noticing: waking up earlier than you thought you would, lingering over coffee because the view keeps pulling your eyes back to the water, wandering between the beach and the old village like you have nowhere else to be.
There’s something grounding about the mix of sea and stone here, the contrast between the busy waterfront and the hushed hillside paths above it.
Most people come to Dhërmi for a few days and end up wishing they had one more. Not because they didn’t do enough, but because the place encourages you to slow down in a way that feels natural.
Even the small moments stay with you, the late afternoon glow over Drymades, the breeze drifting through the old village after sunset, the curve of the coastline as you drive toward Llogara. It’s the kind of trip you think about later when you’re back home and craving a simpler day.
If you’re planning a longer journey through Albania, Dhërmi fits beautifully into almost any itinerary whether you’re heading north toward Vlorë and Tirana, or south toward Himarë, Sarandë, and the Greek islands.
If you tell me how long you’re staying and what kind of travel you enjoy, slow and scenic, beachfocused, fooddriven, or adventurous I can help you shape a route that makes the most of your time on the Riviera and beyond.
