I still remember my first evening in Folegandros. I’d just finished the short uphill walk from the port to Chora when the last light of the day brushed the village in this soft, golden haze. Cats stretched lazily along whitewashed doorsteps, church bells echoed between narrow alleys, and the whole town felt suspended between sky and
Then I looked out from the clifftop and realised why travellers fall for this island so quickly. The cliffs dropped sharply into the deep blue, the kind of view that makes you stop mid-stride without even realising it.
Folegandros is one of those islands that still feels intimate and untouched despite being part of the Cyclades. It’s small, rugged, friendly, and surprisingly easy to explore. If you love walking through quiet villages, chasing sunsets, swimming in unbelievably clear water, and finding places that feel just a little bit secret, you’ll love it here.
This guide pulls together everything I wish I’d known before visiting: the best things to do, the beaches worth your time, how to get around, what to eat, and ready-made itineraries for 1, 2, or 3 days.
Whether you’re coming on a quick island hop from Santorini or staying for a long, lazy Greek holiday this will help you plan the perfect Folegandros trip.
Quick Facts
Best time to visit
Folegandros is one of those islands that feels completely different depending on when you go. May and early June are perfect if you want warm weather without crowdsdays are sunny, evenings are breezy, and the water starts warming up nicely.
July and August are the busiest months, and while the island never gets as frantic as Santorini or Mykonos, the buses, beaches, and Chora squares definitely feel livelier. If you’d rather have space to breathe, September and early October are wonderful.
The sea is at its warmest after a full summer of sunshine, and the island slows back down to a more relaxed pace.
How long to stay
Technically, you can get a good feel for Folegandros in a single day, especially if you’re island-hopping from places like Milos or Santorini. But the island really shines when you stay two or three nights.
That gives you enough time to explore Chora’s little squares, watch at least one sunset from Panagia, and take a boat to Katergo without rushing. If you’re craving a truly slow holiday, long breakfasts, quiet beaches, and no real plans then a full week here is bliss.
It’s small enough to feel manageable but interesting enough that you won’t get bored.
Getting there
Reaching Folegandros is pretty straightforward once you’re already in the Cyclades. Most travellers arrive by ferry, and the journey times are manageable: around 5060 minutes from Santorini, 4560 minutes from Milos, and about 1.52 hours from Naxos.
If you’re coming from Athens, expect a longer ferry ride usually between 3.5 and 5 hours depending on the speed of the boat. The ferry port, Karavostasis, is tiny and calm, so you won’t find the usual island-port chaos.
Ferries pull in, a few taxis and buses wait nearby, and within minutes you’re either on your way to Chora or having a bite by the water.
Island size
One of the best things about Folegandros is how small and manageable it feels. You can drive from one end of the island to the other in about 2025 minutes, which means nothing ever feels far away.
Even if you’re not renting a car, the bus makes it easy to hop between the port, Chora, Ano Meria, and the main beaches. And if you’re the type who loves wandering, you’ll find plenty of scenic walking paths connecting villages, chapels, and coastal viewpoints.
Where to stay
Most travelers stay in Chora, and it’s easy to see why. It’s beautiful, central, and full of little squares, cafés, and taverns. It’s the kind of place where you’ll naturally want to stroll every evening.
If you prefer to stay right by the water, Karavostasis, the port village, is surprisingly peaceful, with a handful of boutique hotels and restaurants overlooking the sea. For an even quieter experience, Ano Meria is perfect. It’s more rural, with long stone walls, traditional houses, and big open views.
Staying there feels like slipping into a slower rhythm, especially if you want to wake up with the sound of nothing but wind and birds.
Getting to Folegandros
Folegandros is one of those islands you reach slowly, and honestly, that’s part of its appeal. There’s no airport here, just ferries coming in from the surrounding Cyclades and the mainland. If you’re already island-hopping, getting to Folegandros is easy and usually very scenic.
The quickest route is from Santorini, only about 50 to 60 minutes on a high-speed ferry. Milos is just as close, usually under an hour, which makes the two islands a popular pair. Coming from Naxos takes a bit longer around 1.5 to 2 hours but the ride is straightforward.
If you’re travelling from Athens/Piraeus, expect a longer journey of roughly 3.55 hours depending on the boat.
Your arrival point is Karavostasis, a small, peaceful port where everything feels surprisingly simple. There’s no chaos here: ferries pull in, passengers step off, and within moments you’ll spot the bus and a couple of taxis waiting right by the dock. It’s an easy transition into island life.
A quick tip: in July and August, ferries fill up quickly, so booking ahead makes life easier. Outside peak season, schedules are more limited, so double-checking the timetable before you travel on windy days in the Cyclades can cause delays.
1, 2, and 3 Day Folegandros Itineraries
Folegandros is small enough that you can see a lot in a short amount of time, but it’s also one of those places that rewards slow travel. Whether you’re passing through on an island-hopping itinerary or staying for a few nights, here’s how to make the most of your time.
If You Have 1 Day in Folegandros
If you’re only here for a day, keep things simple and focus on the essentials: Chora, one good beach, and the most memorable sunset spot on the island.
Start your morning wandering Chora, the island’s picture-perfect capital. It’s one of the most charming villages in the Cyclades, and wandering through it early in the day feels almost magical.
The squares are quiet, the sunlight hits the white walls softly, and you can take your time ducking into tiny alleyways and popping into the little churches scattered around the Kastro district. This is the best time to feel the village waking up, stop for a slow breakfast at a café and enjoy the calm before the day gets busier.
By midday, head down to Agali Beach. The water here is clear, calm, and easy to reach, making it perfect for a quick swim. If you’re in the mood for something quieter and a bit more remote, you can walk or take a short boat ride to Livadaki, a wilder beach with fewer people and stunning blue water.
It’s one of those beaches where you’ll want to stay longer than you planned, so leave enough time for a proper swim.
As afternoon fades, make your way back to Chora and climb up to the Church of Panagia. The zig-zagging white path looks dramatic from below, but the walk isn’t difficult, it just gives you incredible views the entire way up.
Try to arrive a little before sunset so you can watch the light shift over the cliffs and the Aegean. It’s one of the most peaceful sunset spots in the Cyclades.
After sunset, have dinner in Chora. The village transforms at night: fairy lights appear in the squares, families fill the outdoor tables, and the whole place feels cosy and lively without ever being overwhelming. It’s the perfect way to end a short but memorable day on the island.
If You Have 2 Days
Two days give you enough time to slow down a little and explore beyond the essentials.
On your second morning, take a boat trip to Katergo Beach. Boats leave regularly from Karavostasis, and the ride is short but scenic. Katergo feels wonderfully wild, long, pebbly, and backed by dramatic cliffs.
There’s no shade and no facilities, so bring water and whatever you need for a relaxing swim. The water here is some of the clearest on the island, and if you get there early, you might even have most of the beach to yourself.
After you’re back on land, head up to Ano Meria for the afternoon. This is the quieter, more rural side of Folegandros, with long stone walls, simple houses, and wide open views. Wander through the village, stop at the small Folklore Museum, and see how traditional Cycladic homes once looked inside.
It’s a small museum, but a surprisingly interesting one, especially if you want a break from beaches.
In the evening, choose between another dinner in Chora or a casual night of wine and meze. Many visitors fall into a habit of returning to the same square for dinner because each one has its own atmosphere. It’s easy to find a favourite spot.
If You Have 3 Days
Three days is just enough time to add some proper exploring to your trip.
Use your third day to hike one of the island’s scenic trails. Folegandros has an amazing network of old paths that connect beaches, chapels, and remote cliffsides, and most of them are easy enough for beginners.
One of the best hikes starts in Chora and follows a coastal path toward Ambelas. It’s quiet, beautiful, and gives you wide open views of the sea the entire way. If you want something even calmer, start in Ano Meria and walk to Agios Georgios, a peaceful beach with a remote, almost end-of-the-world feel.
Spend your final evening doing what Folegandros does best: wandering Chora’s squares, finding a new taverna to try, and maybe ordering one more round of local wine. The village feels especially charming on your last night, when you know the zig-zag path to Panagia, the corners of the Kastro, and the rhythm of the island just a little more intimately.
Best Things to Do in Folegandros
Folegandros doesn’t have a long list of “big sights” the way some Cycladic islands do and that’s exactly why people love it. It’s more about moments: wandering through quiet village squares, swimming in unbelievably clear water, or finding a beach that feels like it belongs only to you.
Here’s everything worth doing, explained in a way that helps you actually plan your days.
Get Lost in Chora
Chora is the kind of place that makes you slow down without even trying. It’s small, perched right on the edge of a cliff, and full of the kind of charm that feels effortless. The village has three beautiful squares connected by narrow alleys, each one lined with tavernas, small cafés, and whitewashed houses that glow in the late afternoon light.
If you walk toward the older part of the town, the Kastro district, you’ll find yourself in a little maze of tiny homes built tightly together.
Some are centuries old, and you’ll notice that locals still live in many of them. Chora is one of the rare Cycladic capitals that hasn’t turned into a tourist-only village, which is why it feels so peaceful.
Best time to go: early morning for quiet photos, or after sunset when the squares light up and dinner tables spill into the alleys.
Climb Up to the Church of Panagia for Sunset
The Church of Panagia sits high above Chora, and reaching it is part of the experience. The footpath zig-zags up the hill in a white stone trail, and as you climb, the view keeps opening wider the cliff, the sea, the whole of Chora beneath you.
Sunset is the classic time to go, but even arriving about an hour before gives you a totally different mood. You can watch the colours shift across the cliffs and feel the temperature drop a little as the wind picks up. It’s one of the calmest, prettiest viewpoints on the island.
Swim at Katergo Beach
Katergo is the beach that people talk about long after they’ve left Folegandros. It’s long, wild, and framed by high rocky cliffs, the kind of place where the sea looks almost unreal in its clarity.
The easiest way to get there is by boat from Karavostasis. The ride is short, and you get stunning views of the coastline as you approach the beach. If you prefer a more adventurous approach, you can hike there too, though the trail is rocky and entirely exposed to the sun.
There’s absolutely nothing on this beach, no café, no shade, no beach beds which is exactly why it feels so special. Bring water, sunscreen, and something to sit on so you can stay a little longer.
Spend Time at Agali Beach
Agali is the island’s most accessible beach, and it’s great for an easy few hours of swimming and relaxing. The sand is soft, the water is calm, and you’ll find tavernas right above the shore where you can grab lunch or a cold drink.
From Agali, you can walk to two quieter beaches:
- Agios Nikolaos, a small bay with a taverna that feels like a little secret.
- Livadaki, which you can reach on foot if you’re up for it, or by boat if you want an easier journey.
Livadaki especially feels remote and peaceful, perfect if you want that wild Cycladic vibe without travelling too far.
Visit Ano Meria
Ano Meria is the quieter, more rural side of Folegandros. It stretches along the main road in a series of traditional houses, small farms, and long dry stone walls. It’s the kind of place where you’ll still see locals tending their land or sitting outside their homes in the evenings.
While you’re there, stop by the Folklore Museum. It’s small, but it gives a surprisingly lovely glimpse into what life on the island looked like decades ago, simple homes, old tools, and a peaceful courtyard. It’s a nice way to connect with the island beyond beaches and viewpoints.
Eat Your Way Through Folegandros’s Tavernas
Food on the island is simple, local, and delicious. Many dishes use ingredients grown right on the island, vegetables, cheese, herbs, and handmade pasta.
If you want something local, try matsáta, a traditional pasta often served with lamb, goat, or rabbit. The island also does excellent grilled fish, fava, and tomato fritters. Most of the tavernas are in Chora, spread across the squares, and eating outside on a warm evening quickly becomes a nightly ritual.
If you love wine, there are a couple of cosy bars in Chora where you can sit under the trees with a glass of something cold and watch the village life drift by.
Where to Eat & Drink
One of the nicest parts of visiting Folegandros is how unpretentious the food scene feels. There’s no pressure to hunt down “the best restaurant,” because most places are family-run, relaxed, and genuinely good.
You’ll end up eating outdoors most nights, usually in one of Chora’s little squares under trees wrapped in fairy lights, and it’s the atmosphere that makes the meals memorable as much as the food.
In Chora, you’ll find the highest concentration of tavernas. Irini’s is a favourite if you want homestyle dishes made with care. It’s the kind of place where the portions feel generous and the staff treat you like you’ve been coming for years.
A little further along, Pounta Wine Bar & Restaurant is a lovely spot if you enjoy wineespecially local Greek bottles you may not come across elsewhere. It also has one of those views that gets better with every passing minute, especially around sunset.
For something cosy and intimate, Asigrito is a great choice. It has a sweet little courtyard that fills up quickly, so go early if you want a good table. Their meze-style dishes are perfect for sharing.
Down by the port in Karavostasis, the vibe is different/quieter, with restaurants facing the sea. Vrahos is a classic stop after a swim or when you’re waiting for the ferry; the seafood is simple and fresh, and the view is exactly what you want during a Greek island meal.
If you’re after something a bit more modern, Ammoudaki offers a slightly contemporary twist on local flavours while still keeping things relaxed.
If you make your way to Ano Meria, you’ll find a much more traditional side of Folegandros. O Psaromiligkas is the kind of taverna where the ingredients taste like they came straight from someone’s garden because they often do.
The dishes are rustic and hearty, and it’s a lovely place to experience the island’s more rural cooking traditions.
Wherever you eat, order matsáta at least once (the island’s handmade pasta), try whatever fish looks freshest that day, and leave space for a glass of cold local wine. Meals here tend to stretch, conversations linger, and nobody is in a rush.
Where to Stay in Folegandros
Choosing where to stay on Folegandros really comes down to the kind of trip you’re looking for. The island is small, so you can’t really go wrong, but each area has its own mood.
If you want to be close to cafés, tavernas, and the prettiest streets on the island, staying in Chora is ideal. The village is especially magical at night, and you can walk everywhere. For a more boutique stay, Anemi Hotel offers a stylish, modern setting with beautiful design and a peaceful atmosphere, perfect if you’re visiting as a couple.
If you want something that feels Cycladic and charming but not overly fancy, Aspalathras White Hotel fits that middle ground beautifully, with spacious rooms and the kind of hospitality that makes you feel at home.
Folegandros Apartments is another great Chora option, especially if you like the idea of staying right inside the village rather than on its outskirts.
For anyone who prefers waking up by the water, Karavostasis is quiet and scenic. Many travellers choose it for the convenience of being right next to the port, especially if they’re visiting for just a night or two.
Blue Sand Boutique Hotel, located near Agali Beach, also deserves a special mention: its rooms look straight out onto the sea, and it’s one of the most romantic places to stay on the island.
If you’re travelling on a tighter budget, Meltemi Hotel is a great no-fuss option that’s perfect for solo travellers or anyone who just wants a clean, comfortable base. Aegean Star Hotel is also a solid, good-value choice if you prefer something quiet but still close to the main areas of the island.
No matter where you stay, you’ll never be more than a short bus ride or drive from the beaches or the hiking trails. That’s one of the joys of Folegandroseverything feels close, manageable, and wonderfully low-stress.
Conclusion
Folegandros may be small, but it has a way of leaving a big impression. It’s not an island of flashy sights or long checklists, it’s a place where the best moments happen quietly. You notice it during breakfast in a peaceful square, when the morning sun spills into Chora’s alleys.
You feel it when you’re sitting on a clifftop waiting for the sky to turn gold. You feel it again when you jump into the water at a beach so clear you can count every pebble beneath you.
What makes Folegandros special isn’t just the scenery, though the cliffs and beaches are undeniably beautiful. It’s the slow rhythm of life here. It’s the friendly taverna owners, the long summer dinners that drift into the night, and the way the village squares fill with just enough people to feel lively but never crowded.
It’s the kind of island where you can actually relax whether you’re visiting for a single day or lingering for a full week.
If you love places that feel authentic, warm, and quietly magical, Folegandros will stay with you long after you’ve left. And if you’re planning more Greek island adventures, don’t worry there’s no shortage of beautiful Cycladic neighbours to hop to next.
