The first time I drove along the Albanian Riviera, I kept pulling over not because I was looking for the “best viewpoint,” but because the coastline kept surprising me. One moment I was surrounded by pines, the kind that smell slightly sweet in the heat, and the next the road opened up to cliffs that dropped into water so clear it looked lit from underneath.
The asphalt twisted in ways that forced me to slow down, and every turn revealed another small cove or village I didn’t recognise from any guidebook. I had planned a tidy two-hour drive; it took most of the day.
That trip taught me that the Riviera doesn’t reward rushing. I took ferries that left later than expected, drove mountain roads that made me grateful I wasn’t in a hurry, and swam off beaches that looked completely different depending on the hour. In the mornings, the water was glassy and quiet; by late afternoon, it picked up a rhythm of its own.
I learned which spots were best for swimming, which were better for just sitting with a cold drink, and which towns came alive only after the sun dipped behind the cliffs.
If you’re planning your first Albanian Riviera trip, think of this as the guide I wish I had on my first visitnot a collection of polished highlights, but something honest and detailed, written for travellers who want to understand the rhythm of a place rather than just tick through its most famous spots.
At a Glance
The Riviera is at its best in May, June, September, and early October. The water is warm, the beaches feel relaxed, and you can move around without the heat or crowds of midsummer. July and August are fine if that’s when you’re travelling, just expect full beaches, bright sun, and a livelier pace everywhere.
How long you stay depends on the kind of trip you want. Within 48 hours, keep things simple and base yourself in Sarandë or Ksamil. Two days is enough for a good swim, a boat trip, and a quick visit to Butrint or the Blue Eye, but not much more.
Within four days, you can add Dhërmi or Himarë and get a better feel for the coastline. Those towns are where the mountains meet the sea in a dramatic way. And if you have a full week, you can drive the whole stretch without rushing, explore a couple of small coves, and take a day inland to Gjirokastër.
The Riviera suits travellers who like a mix of scenery and simple pleasures: clear water, small towns, quiet mornings, and roads that encourage you to slow down. Couples, swimmers, and roadtrippers usually find it an easy place to fall into.
Sample Itineraries
If You Have 48 Hours
With only two days, it’s best to stay in Sarandë or Ksamil, where everything is close and you don’t lose time moving between towns. These two make good bases because they give you a mix of beaches, ruins, and short ferry connections without long drives.
- Day 1
Start your morning in Sarandë, walking the promenade before the sun gets too strong. The cafés open early, and there’s something nice about watching the fishing boats return while you sip your coffee. The town feels calm at this hour, almost slow in a way that disappears later in the day.
When the heat settles in, head to Mirror Beach. The drive is short, but the road has a few tight turns, so take it gently. Mirror Beach is one of those places that looks different depending on the light, almost silver in the morning, brighter by midday. If you want a quieter patch of sand, walk a little further away from the main entrance.
After you’ve dried off, make your way to Butrint National Park. It’s close enough that the drive feels easy, but far enough that it becomes a small outing of its own. Once inside, take your time. The ruins sit inside a mix of forest and water, and the shade makes the walk surprisingly pleasant even in warm weather.
You’ll pass turtles, old stone walls swallowed by trees, and viewpoints over the lagoon. Don’t rush it.
Head back to Sarandë in the evening. The harbour feels different at night, a little busy but in a relaxed way. Seafood is the easiest option here, and it’s usually fresh enough that you don’t need to complicate your order.
- Day 2
Spend the morning in Ksamil, ideally on the water. Boats head out to the islands regularly, and even the short ride makes it feel like a proper getaway. The water around the islands is shallow and bright, and the swim between the shore and the first island is easy if the sea is calm.
Stay for lunch at one of the restaurants on the sand. Meals here tend to stretch out without effort, you swim, dry off, eat, talk yourself into another swim, and suddenly the afternoon is half gone.
Before heading back to Sarandë, stop at Lëkursi Castle for sunset. The view across the bay and toward Corfu ties together everywhere you’ve been over the past two days.
If You Have 4 Days
Four days gives you the freedom to move slowly down the coastline and actually feel the shift between its different parts. You notice the northern cliffs first, then the quiet middle towns, and finally the soft, shallow waters near Ksamil.
- Day 1
Begin in Vlorë and take the coastal road toward the Llogara Pass. The drive isn’t long on paper, but it’s one of those stretches where the scenery slows you down naturally. As you climb, the temperature drops and the pine forest thickens.
At the top, the wind picks up and the views open in a way that feels sudden, almost theatrical. Stop when you feel like stopping there’s no “best” viewpoint because they all offer slightly different angles.
Once you descend, settle into Dhërmi. The town spreads out along the coast, and the beach here feels wider and cleaner than many others. It’s a good place to end your first day because the evenings stay quiet and the sea reflects the last bit of light beautifully.
- Day 2
Make your way toward Himarë, but don’t treat it as a transfer. This stretch of the coastline is full of small coves that aren’t in guidebooks or GPS pins.
If you see a path leading down, follow it. Sometimes you find nothing, but sometimes you find a cove with three people and water so clear you can see the stones in perfect detail.
Himarë itself has an unfussy charm. Spend the afternoon drifting between the beach and the small cafés that overlook the water. Dinner along the harbour is simple: grilled fish, good bread, maybe a salad with local olive oil. Nothing fancy, but reliably good.
- Day 3
Head south to Sarandë. It feels larger and busier than Dhërmi or Himarë, but it’s also where the southern Riviera becomes easier to explore. Drop your bags and stretch your legs with a walk along the waterfront. There’s no need to do too much today, save your energy for the next one.
- Day 4
Devote the day to Ksamil. The beaches here feel almost tropical, especially in the morning when the sea is still calm. Rent a boat, swim out to the islands, or just take your time moving between the different bays.
Ksamil is where the Riviera becomes playful, and it’s a nice place to end a four-day trip on a lighter note.
If You Have 7 Days
A full week lets the Riviera breathe. You don’t have to choose between beaches and inland towns, and you’re free to let each place settle in rather than rushing to the next.
- Day 1
Start in Vlorë and ease your way through the Llogara Pass. If you have time, stop for a short walk at the top. The forest paths give you a different sense of the mountains than the road does. Stay in Dhërmi, where the water is incredibly clear and mornings feel fresh.
- Day 2
Spend the day enjoying Dhërmi properly. You can walk along the beach, find shaded patches, and take a break whenever you feel like it. If you’re curious, try one of the small trails that lead to neighbouring coves. These walks aren’t demanding, but the reward is feeling like you’ve stumbled onto something a little hidden.
- Day 3
Move south to Himarë, stopping wherever the coastline looks appealing. Even though the drive isn’t long, it usually takes more time than expected because the views keep interrupting you. In the afternoon, climb up to Himarë Castle.
The uphill path isn’t difficult, and the view from the top gives you a sense of just how much coastline you’ve covered already.
- Day 4
Continue to Sarandë, but keep the day gentle. Explore the town, take a swim if it’s warm, or just sit somewhere shaded and peoplewatch. Having a slow day here will make the next two days feel more balanced.
- Day 5
Start early and head to Butrint. The site feels calmer in the morning, and the light makes the lagoon look almost glassy.
Spend the afternoon in Ksamil, where you can unwind in the water after a morning of walking. If the weather is good, the sea stays warm and clear until sunset.
- Day 6
Make this your Karaburun Sazan day. The boat trips leave from Vlorë or Orikum, so you’ll need to plan the drive, but it’s worth the effort.
You’ll visit sea caves, swim in deep blue bays, and see a part of the coastline you can’t reach by car. It’s a long day, but one of the most memorable.
- Day 7
Finish with an inland trip to Gjirokastër. The shift from sea to mountains is refreshing, and the old town feels like a storybook version of Albanian stone roofs, steep alleyways, and a castle that gives you wide views of the whole valley.
It adds a layer of history and texture to your trip that balances all the beach days.
My Top Things to Do on the Albanian Riviera
Swim at the Ksamil Islands
If you only swim once on the Riviera, make it here. The water around the Ksamil Islands has that almost glassy clarity where you can see the seafloor shift as the waves move. Some days it’s calm enough to swim to the first island; on others, you’ll want a kayak or one of the small boats that putter back and forth.
Try to come earlybefore the music and sunbeds take overbecause the mornings have a softness that disappears later in the day. I’ve spent whole mornings floating here, doing nothing more than watching the colour of the water change.
Drive the Llogara Pass
The Llogara Pass is the kind of drive that forces you to slow down whether you planned to or not. The air cools as you climb, pine needles scatter across the road, and then the trees suddenly thin and the sea appears far below you.
No camera really captures the height or the way the coastline stretches out. Even if you’re not the one driving, you’ll find yourself leaning forward, trying to take it all in. Pull over wherever feels safe the viewpoints aren’t marked, but the good ones reveal themselves naturally.
Explore Butrint National Park
Butrint is quiet in a way that feels restorative. You walk from one shaded path to the next, and the ruins gradually appear: an archway hidden behind trees, a theatre with frogs sunning themselves on the stones, a viewpoint overlooking the lagoon.
You don’t need a guide here unless you want one; the park is best experienced at your own pace. Early morning is beautiful, when the light is soft and the air hasn’t turned thick with heat.
Visit the Blue Eye
The Blue Eye feels like it belongs in a different climate entirely. Even before you reach the spring, the air cools and the light dims under the forest canopy. And then you see this impossibly deep, electric blue circle bubbling with cold water.
People always gasp or go silent for a moment; it has that effect. It’s colder here than the rest of the Riviera, so bring something to throw over your shoulders after you’ve stood watching the spring for a while.
Spend a Day Around Karaburun & Sazan
Taking a boat around the Karaburun Peninsula and over to Sazan Island is one of the best long days you can have here. The coastline looks rugged and raw, the sea caves echo as boats pull inside, and the water is some of the clearest on the Riviera.
Most operators stop for swimming, and that first plunge into water that feels colder and cleaner than anywhere else is unforgettable. Choose a boat with some shade; the light bouncing off the cliffs can be strong.
Eat Seafood in Sarandë
Sarandë changes character when the sun goes down. The heat lifts, the lights along the waterfront switch on one by one, and the harbour fills with the kind of chatter that comes from people who aren’t in a hurry. This is when the seafood places start to feel their best.
You’ll smell grilled fish before you see it simple, smoky, with that mix of garlic and olive oil drifting across the promenade.
Most restaurants here lay out their catch of the day on ice near the entrance, and it’s worth taking a moment to look. The fish usually comes from local boats that pull in earlier in the afternoon, and the servers are happy to talk you through what’s actually fresh rather than pushing the pricier options.
I’ve had some of my best meals by pointing at something that looked good and asking them to prepare it however they would for themselves. Sometimes it comes whole and lightly charred, sometimes with just enough lemon to brighten it.
If you prefer something smaller, order a plate of sardines or anchovies. They’re cheap, always fresh, and pair well with a cold beer after a day in the sun. And if you want to longer which most people doSarandë is an easy place to do it.
The tables spill out toward the water, the harbour lights ripple on the surface, and the atmosphere feels unforced. Even if you’re not a big seafood person, it’s worth giving it a chance here. Something about the setting makes everything taste a little better.
Beaches
The Riviera’s beaches aren’t all the same, and choosing the right one can change your day completely. Here’s how each of the major ones actually feels when you’re standing there.
Ksamil Islands
Soft sand, shallow water, and a slightly tropical feeling even on a cloudy day. Great for families and anyone who wants calm swimming without long walks or tricky paths. It’s close to Sarandë, so expect company but the colours make it worth it.
Dhërmi Beach
Long, spacious, and beautifully clear, especially in the morning when the sun sits low. The pebbles shine under the water, which gives the sea that deep blue look Dhërmi is known for. Beach bars sit far enough apart that it doesn’t feel cramped. A good place if you want a whole day of easy swimming and lounging.
Himarë Beach
Gentle and friendly, with restaurants and cafés right behind the sand. It’s the kind of beach where you dip in and out of the water between meals and don’t feel pressured to “do” anything. Evenings are lovely, the water picks up the pink from the sky.
Mirror Beach
Small and tucked into a cove, with water that lives up to the name on calm days. The reflections really do shimmer across the surface when the light hits it right. Great for swimming and photos. Parking can be tricky, so come early.
Gjipe Beach
Reaching Gjipe is half the experience. You either hike through a canyon or approach by boat from a nearby beach. Once you’re there, the cliffs rise high around you, and the beach has a wild, uncrowded feeling. Facilities are minimal, so bring what you need. Best for travellers who enjoy effort reward moments.
Jala Beach
Shingle shore, lively energy, and a younger crowd in summer. Good for people who enjoy beach bars, music, and a more social vibe. The water is clear and refreshing, making it a nice swimming spot when you want something a bit more upbeat.
Where to Stay
Sarandë
Sarandë is the most practical base on the Riviera, especially if you’re planning day trips. Ferries run frequently, buses leave from here, and you can reach Butrint, Ksamil, and the Blue Eye without hours of driving. The town has a long waterfront lined with cafés and restaurants, and evenings tend to feel lively without being chaotic.
If you’re travelling on a budget, the smaller guesthouses tucked a few blocks behind the promenade are usually the best value. Many are family-run, and you’ll often find balconies with a sliver of sea view even in the simpler rooms.
Midrange travellers usually choose the seafront hotelsnothing overly fancy, but having a balcony facing the bay makes mornings and late nights feel special. If you want something newer or more contemporary, the higherend hotels built along the hill above the promenade offer big windows, wide views, and quieter surroundings than the centre.
Sarandë works for people who like convenience: easy food options, easy transport, and easy beach access without needing to plan every detail.
Ksamil
Ksamil is the Riviera’s postcardbright water, small islands, and beaches that feel tropical on the right day. It’s the best place to stay if swimming is your priority and you want to be close to Butrint. Just know it gets busy in July and August, so it helps to choose your accommodation with care.
Budget travellers usually end up in one of the many family-run rooms near the centre. They’re simple but clean, and most are a short walk from the beaches.
If you want something prettier and quieter, the midrange boutique hotels scattered around the bays are a nice upgrade to smaller properties with terraces, good natural light, and slightly calmer surroundings.
For a treat, the upscale beachfront suites offer the easiest mornings: you wake up, walk down a few steps, and you’re on the sand.
Ksamil is ideal for couples, families, and anyone who wants an unhurried beach holiday with water so clear it distracts you from everything else.
Dhërmi
Dhërmi sits on one of the Riviera’s most beautiful stretches of coastline. The cliffs rise sharply above the sea, the beaches are long and clean, and the evenings feel slow in a way that makes you want to stay an extra night. It’s a great choice for couples or travellers who like a quieter base with dramatic scenery.
Budget stays are usually found closer to the main roadnothing fancy, but the rooms are comfortable and you’re only a short walk or drive from the beach. Midrange options climb up the slopes, offering balconies with sea views and a bit more privacy.
If you want something special, the cliffside resorts are the highlight. Waking up to that wide blue view and watching the light change along the coast is part of the experience here.
Dhërmi is best if you want calm mornings, beautiful driving routes, and access to hidden coves without feeling rushed.
Himarë
Himarë is the easiest town on the Riviera to settle into, relaxed without trying, friendly in a genuine way, and perfect for travellers who like a slower rhythm. It has a long, walkable beach, a small harbour, and an old town perched above it with winding lanes and views that stretch for miles.
Budget travellers tend to stay in the old town guesthouses, where the rooms are simple but full of character, and mornings come with a breeze through the stone alleys.
If you prefer being closer to the water, the midrange hotels along the beach offer the convenience of stepping straight from your room to the sea.
For a quieter and more polished stay, the hilltop suites overlooking the bay are beautiful wide terraces, soft light, and the kind of view that makes breakfast last longer than planned.
Himarë works well for couples, solo travellers, and anyone who wants a base that feels livedin rather than resortlike.
When to Go
- May and June
These are some of the best months to visit. The sea is already warm enough for long swims, the days feel bright without being too hot, and the beaches still have space to enjoy without squeezing between umbrellas. It’s a great time for road tripping because the coastal traffic is light and the viewpoints stay calm.
- July and August
It is the height of summer. Expect hot days, full beaches, and long evenings when the towns stay awake much later. If you enjoy a lively atmosphere and don’t mind sharing the coastline with more people, this is the season for you. Just plan around the heat/early swims and shaded lunches help a lot.
- September and October
Feel gentler. The crowds thin, the light softens, and the sea stays warm from the summer months. It’s one of the easiest times to explore the coastline at a slower pace, especially if you prefer quieter towns and cooler evenings.
- Winter
It is very calm. Many beach bars and boat operators close for the season, and the coastline takes on a sleepy, offseason feel. It’s peaceful, but not ideal if you’re hoping for swimming, open restaurants, or a classic “Riviera” trip.
Conclusion
The Albanian Riviera is a place that rewards slowing down. You notice it in the way mornings feel soft by the water, how the roads invite you to stop for views you didn’t expect, and how each town settles into its own rhythm.
Whether you stay for a weekend or a full week, you’ll find a coastline that’s varied and easy to fall into calm coves, bigger beaches, lively promenades, and quiet corners that don’t appear on maps.
If you’re planning a wider Albania trip or want help choosing where to base yourself, just tell me how long you’re staying and what kind of traveller you are. I can help you build a route that feels natural and fits the pace you enjoy.
