When I first arrived in the Valle d’Itria, I felt like I’d stepped into another world. Olive groves seemed endless, stretching in silver-green waves across the hills. Here and there, little whitewashed towns appeared on hilltops, and scattered in between were the iconic stone trulli with their pointed roofs. At first, I thought I’d stop by for a day or two, but the more time I spent here, the more I realized how each town carries its own charm.
Alberobello’s trulli feel whimsical, Locorotondo is perfectly tidy and full of flowers, Martina Franca has a grand baroque flair, and Cisternino smells like grilled meat drifting from the butchers. What I expected to be a quick visit turned into a slow exploration of flavors, history, and views. This guide brings together everything I wish I’d known before visiting: the towns worth your time, where to eat, and how to plan your trip whether you have a single day or a full week.
Quick Facts About Valle d’Itria
Before diving into the details, let me share a few things that helped me plan my trip. The weather can make or break your experience here. I found that late spring and early autumn were ideal, with warm days and cool evenings that made wandering the cobblestone streets comfortable. In the height of summer, the midday heat was intense, and Alberobello in particular filled up quickly with day-trippers.
The valley is easy to reach thanks to two airports: Bari to the north and Brindisi to the south. Both are about an hour’s drive away, which means you can fly into one and out of the other if you’re planning a broader Puglia itinerary.
When it comes to getting around, I learned quickly that renting a car is not just convenient, it’s almost essential. Trains and buses do exist, but they are slow, infrequent, and not always aligned with when you want to explore. Some services also stop early in the evening, so if you’re planning a sunset dinner in Cisternino, for example, you might struggle to get back without your own wheels. And of course, the region is most famous for its trulli houses, wine, olive oil, and bright white towns are often tucked into corners best reached by car.
Map & How to Use This Guide
Whenever I visit a new region, I like to start with a map spread out in front of me. In the Valle d’Itria, this was especially helpful because the towns are so close together yet each one offers something unique. I pinned Alberobello, Locorotondo, Martina Franca, Cisternino, and Ostuni right away; these are the heart of the valley. From there, I added extra stops like the Grotte di Castellana, where you can go underground, and coastal escapes like Polignano a Mare, which are only a short drive away.
You can use this guide in two ways: if you’re short on time, skim through the town sections and pick what excites you most. If you have several days, follow the sample itineraries at the end. They balance sightseeing with slow afternoons of wine and food, which is really the rhythm of this region.
Getting There & Getting Around
If you’re flying in, chances are you’ll land in either Bari or Brindisi. Both airports are manageable and well connected to major European cities. From Bari, I tried taking the train to Alberobello once it worked, but the trip was longer than I expected, with changes and long waits. Public transport in the valley is perfectly fine for locals who use it daily, but as a visitor who wants to hop between towns, it can feel frustrating. That’s why I recommend renting a car. Having your own vehicle gives you the freedom to wander into smaller villages or stop at a viewpoint without checking a timetable.
Driving here is not difficult, but there are quirks. Many of the historic centers are car-free or have very limited access, so you’ll often park outside the walls and walk in. I learned to keep some coins handy for parking machines, and I always wore sturdy shoes because the cobblestones can be slippery, especially after rain. Once you get the hang of it, the drives between towns are part of the joy the views of olive trees, vineyards, and the occasional trullo dotting the fields make every journey feel like sightseeing in itself.
Best Things to Do in Valle d’Itria
Alberobello: The Trulli Capital
The first time I walked into Alberobello, it felt like stepping into a fairytale. The trulli circular stone houses with pointed roofs seem almost too whimsical to be real. The town is divided into two main neighborhoods: Rione Monti, where many trulli have been converted into shops and cafés, and Aia Piccola, which is quieter and still lived in by families. If you want a sense of what life inside a trullo was like, visit the Trullo Sovrano, the only two-story trullo open to the public. My favorite moment was at sunrise, when the streets were completely empty and the conical rooftops glowed in soft pink light. Alberobello can feel crowded during the day, but if you stay overnight in a trullo, you’ll get to see a much calmer, more authentic side of the town before the buses arrive.
Locorotondo: Wine & Whitewashed Charm
Locorotondo is one of the neatest, most photogenic towns I’ve ever seen. True to its name, it’s circular, sitting high on a hill with cobblestone streets that spiral inward. Every corner feels cared for, with geraniums spilling out of flower boxes and balconies polished to perfection. From the viewpoints just outside the old town walls, you can see the patchwork of olive groves and vineyards below. Locorotondo is also the center of the region’s wine country.
The crisp white wines produced here are light, refreshing, and perfect on a hot day. I spent an afternoon at a small family-run winery just outside town, sipping local DOC wines alongside wedges of cheese and fresh bread. It was one of those experiences that slowed me down and reminded me why Valle d’Itria is best savored, not rushed.
Martina Franca: Baroque Beauty
Martina Franca is a bigger, busier town compared to its neighbors, but it has an elegance that makes it stand out. The Piazza Plebiscito is the heart of the action, framed by the town hall and the ornate Basilica di San Martino. I loved wandering the narrow lanes here in the late afternoon when the shadows were long and locals began filling the piazza for their evening stroll.
Martina Franca is also known for its baroque architecture; you’ll find elaborate facades and carved stone details around almost every corner. After an hour of exploring, I sat down at an outdoor café with an aperitivo, watching the town come alive. It’s also a practical place to base yourself, especially if you want a slightly larger town with plenty of restaurants and hotels.
Cisternino: For Meat Lovers
Cisternino doesn’t try to impress with big monuments or piazzas. Its charm lies in its food and the simple rhythm of life. The town is famous for its fornelli pronti, where butchers double as grill masters. You choose your cut of meat, often bombette, little pork rolls stuffed with cheese and herbs and they cook it for you on the spot.
I’ll never forget sitting at a simple table with locals, eating bombette straight from the grill with a jug of house wine. In between meals, I wandered through quiet alleys where laundry hung from balconies and old men played cards in shady corners. From the town’s lookouts, you get sweeping views of the countryside that remind you just how green and fertile this valley is.
Ostuni: The White City
Perched on a hilltop just beyond the valley, Ostuni is instantly recognizable. Its old town rises like a cluster of sugar cubes, glowing white under the sun. I arrived in the afternoon, when the light was soft and the streets were buzzing with cafés setting up for the evening. Walking uphill through its twisting lanes, I finally reached the cathedral square, where views stretched all the way to the Adriatic Sea. Ostuni feels a bit larger and livelier than the other towns in the valley, making it a great addition if you want a mix of history, views, and seaside atmosphere. I ended up lingering here longer than I planned, sipping coffee at a terrace with one of the best panoramas in Puglia.
Ceglie Messapica & Hidden Corners
Ceglie Messapica doesn’t have the postcard fame of Alberobello or Ostuni, but that’s exactly what I liked about it. The town has a more relaxed pace, with locals chatting in the piazza and children playing football in the streets. There’s a castle at the center, and the food culture here is strong. You’ll find family-run trattorias serving hearty, traditional dishes without the crowds. Spending a few hours here gave me a glimpse into everyday life in the valley, and it was a nice balance after the busier tourist stops.
Grotte di Castellana
On a hot summer day, I escaped underground into the Grotte di Castellana. These caves stretch for over three kilometers, and the guided tours take you past stalactites, stalagmites, and cathedral-like chambers formed over millions of years. I chose the two-hour tour and found it fascinating, though even the shorter version gives you a good sense of the underground world. The temperature is much cooler inside, so bring a light jacket. It’s an otherworldly experience and a great way to mix up the historic towns with something entirely different.
Wine & Olive Oil Experiences
The Strada del Vino threads its way through vineyards and olive groves, offering endless opportunities to taste what the valley produces best. I joined a half-day tasting and was surprised by how personal the experience felt. At the olive oil mill, the family explained how harvesting still happens by hand, and I could actually taste the difference between freshly pressed oils. Wine tastings are equally rewarding especially around Locorotondo, where crisp whites pair beautifully with local cheeses and breads. These visits gave me a deeper appreciation for the land and the traditions that define it.
Active Adventures: Walking & Cycling
If you like exploring on foot or by bike, the Valle d’Itria is a dream. I rented a bike in Locorotondo and followed a loop that wound past trulli, vineyards, and old farmhouses. The roads are narrow but quiet, and drivers are used to cyclists. Walking trails are equally rewarding, letting you slow down and notice details you’d otherwise miss like the dry stone walls that line the fields or the scent of wild herbs carried on the breeze. These active moments gave me a break from sightseeing and made me feel more connected to the landscape.
Where to Stay: Trulli, Masserie & More
Accommodation in the valley is part of the experience. If you’re celebrating something special, staying at a masseria, a traditional farmhouse turned boutique hotel can be magical, especially those with pools surrounded by olive trees. Mid-range travelers will love renting a restored trullo or choosing a family-run B&B, both of which give you a taste of local life. Budget options are easiest to find in bigger towns like Martina Franca or Cisternino. I personally stayed in a trullo just outside Alberobello, and waking up to the sound of birds in a stone house older than my great-grandparents was unforgettable.
What to Eat in Valle d’Itria
Food is one of the valley’s greatest joys, and every town has something to tempt you. I ate orecchiette pasta more times than I can count, sometimes with simple tomato sauce, other times with cime di rapa, a slightly bitter green that’s typical of the region. In Cisternino, the bombette lived up to their reputation, juicy and rich with melted cheese inside. I also made it a habit to grab a slice of focaccia Barese whenever I spotted a bakery.
The olive oil-soaked crust and bursts of cherry tomatoes made it the perfect snack. Wine is everywhere, from crisp whites in Locorotondo to full-bodied reds like Primitivo. And don’t leave without trying pasticciotti, little custard-filled pastries that became my guilty pleasure. Every café seemed to have its own version, and I happily made it my mission to taste as many as possible.
Sample Itineraries
1 Day in Valle d’Itria
If you only have one day to spare, you’ll want to keep things simple yet satisfying. Start in Alberobello just after sunrise, when the streets are still quiet and the trulli feel like something out of a dream. Give yourself time to wander both Rione Monti and Aia Piccola, noticing the difference between the lively shop-filled lanes and the quieter residential corners. Once you’ve had your fill, make the short drive to Locorotondo for lunch.
Pick a trattoria with a view if you can, order a plate of orecchiette with tomato sauce or seasonal greens, and enjoy it with a glass of crisp local wine. After lunch, take a slow stroll through the circular streets, peek into courtyards, and pause at a viewpoint before moving on. As evening approaches, head to Cisternino. This is the place to linger over dinner, choose your cuts of meat at a butcher’s counter, let them grill it for you, and sit among locals while the sky turns golden and the valley stretches out below.
3 Days in Valle d’Itria
Three days allows you to relax into the valley’s pace. On your first day, follow the one-day plan, but instead of rushing out, stay overnight in a trullo. There’s something special about seeing the conical rooftops under soft night lighting and waking up before the tour buses arrive. Day two is perfect for mixing history and food.
Start at the Grotte di Castellana, where you’ll spend a couple of hours underground surrounded by incredible limestone formations. Once back above ground, drive to Martina Franca for the afternoon. Its elegant baroque facades and lively piazzas are best enjoyed slowly duck into a café, watch the local life unfold, and then enjoy an aperitivo as the sun sets. On day three, make your way to Ostuni. Climb up through the maze of whitewashed alleys until you reach the cathedral. From there, the views spill all the way to the Adriatic Sea. Spend time meandering through shops and cafés before ending your day with dinner back in the valley.
7 Days in Valle d’Itria
A week gives you the chance to go beyond the highlights. Use the three-day plan as your foundation, then build from there. Dedicate one day to Ceglie Messapica, a town that feels more lived-in and less polished, with a castle at its heart and trattorias that serve hearty traditional dishes. Plan another day for the coast Polignano a Mare with its dramatic cliffs and turquoise waters, or Monopoli with its sandy beaches and old harbor.
Swim in the Adriatic, eat seafood fresh from the sea, and enjoy a different side of Puglia. I also recommend leaving one day deliberately unplanned. Whether you spend it by the pool of a masseria, cycling along olive-lined lanes, or simply sitting outside your trullo with a glass of wine, that slow day will likely become one of your favorite memories. By the end of seven days, you won’t just have visited Valle d’Itria, you’ll have felt its rhythm and carried some of it with you.
Practical Tips & Mistakes to Avoid
One thing I quickly learned is that timing matters. Alberobello is completely different at sunrise compared to midday. Go early or stay overnight if you want to experience it without the crowds. When exploring the Trulli neighborhoods, remember that many are still people’s homes. Knock before entering and avoid peeking through windows makes a big difference to the residents.
If you’re planning to visit the Grotte di Castellana, book your tickets online. Tours often sell out, especially in summer, and you don’t want to make the trip only to wait hours for the next slot. Weekly markets are another highlight, but they usually wrap up by midday. I once arrived at one just before lunch and most stalls were already packing up. Plan to go in the morning for the freshest produce and local cheeses.
Finally, carry some cash. Larger restaurants and hotels accept cards, but many smaller cafés, bakeries, and market stalls prefer coins and notes. Having a little on hand makes life easier and keeps you from missing out on an impromptu snack or souvenir.
Traveling Responsibly
The Valle d’Itria is beautiful because traditions are still alive here, and being a thoughtful traveler helps keep it that way. Choosing family-owned wineries, olive oil mills, and restaurants not only gives you a more personal experience but also supports the people who live here year-round. Skip the crowded trullo photo spots during peak hours and instead wander into quieter alleys where you’ll find just as much charm. If you can, explore some of the valley by bike or on foot. It’s slower, but you’ll notice things you’d miss in a car like the smell of wild fennel or the details of old stone walls. The valley rewards travelers who take their time.
Final Thoughts
The Valle d’Itria has a way of slowing you down whether you plan on it or not. I came here expecting to check a few things off my list, see the trulli, taste some wine, snap a few photos and instead found myself lingering longer than I ever imagined.
There’s something about waking up in a stone trullo, hearing birds in the olive trees, and realizing that these houses have stood for centuries. In Locorotondo, afternoons seemed to dissolve into long glasses of crisp white wine and the chatter of locals leaning on doorways. In Cisternino, I learned that the simple act of choosing meat from a butcher and watching it grilled to perfection could turn into one of my favorite meals in Italy. And in Ostuni, the whitewashed walls glowing in the evening light made me feel like I’d stepped into a painting.
What makes the valley special isn’t just the towns themselves, but the way they all connect. Each one has its own rhythm, but together they create a landscape that feels both lived-in and timeless. The smell of focaccia from a bakery, the sound of church bells echoing across olive groves, the sight of laundry fluttering in a narrow alley are the details that stay with you.
If you’re planning a trip to Puglia, don’t rush this part of it. Give yourself the chance to settle into the pace of the valley. Spend a night in a trullo, wander alleys without a map, stop at viewpoints even if you’re running late. The Valle d’Itria isn’t a place you simply see, it’s a place you feel. And if you let it, its quiet magic will stay with you long after you’ve left.
