I love Liguria for how quickly the scenery changes. One moment you’re standing in Genoa, a port city with soaring palazzi and an edge that feels lived-in, and the next you’re walking down to a pastel-painted harbor where fishing boats bob like toys in the sea.
That contrast is what hooked me the first time I visited. Liguria isn’t just about Cinque Terre though of course, those famous five villages are beautiful. It’s also about the quieter corners, the hidden abbeys you can only reach by boat, the bowls of pesto that taste nothing like the jar you buy at home, and the lazy swims in small bays where you’ll mostly be surrounded by locals.
When I was planning my first trip here, I kept running into two problems: either guides that felt like a laundry list of towns, or travel blogs that leaned heavily into dreamy photos but left out the practical details. This article is meant to sit somewhere in the middle. It’s practical enough that you could actually use it to plan a trip. I’ll tell you how long to stay in each place, when to take the train instead of a car, and which towns are worth waking up early for but also personal, because the experiences I’ve included are the ones that stuck with me.
I’ve organized everything so you can build a trip that works with your time. Maybe you only have a day to dip into Liguria, in which case you could spend the morning eating pesto in Genoa and the evening watching golden hour in Portofino. Or maybe you have a week and you want to balance the big-name sights with a night in a hilltop village. Either way, the idea is that you can pick what you need: food, beaches, hikes, or simply slow wandering in small coastal towns. And as you read, you’ll find little notes on timing, logistics, and where I think it’s worth booking ahead.
If you’re planning your first trip to the Italian Riviera, I hope this feels like the practical version of a postcard, something that gives you the beauty and the romance, but also the details that make it easier to actually get there.
Quick Snapshot: What Liguria Is & Who It’s For
Liguria is a thin crescent of land squeezed between the mountains and the sea, and that geography gives it a very particular charm. It feels at once dramatic and intimate. You’ve got cliffs plunging straight into turquoise water, small villages painted in sherbet colors, and winding mountain roads that suddenly open up to views of the Riviera. Genoa, right in the middle, is the region’s hub, a little gritty, full of history, and often overlooked.
This is a region for travelers who like variety. If you’re a foodie, you’ll never forget your first forkful of trofie pasta twisted into a bowl of fresh pesto. If you’re into hiking, the Cinque Terre trails and Portofino’s park will give you plenty of chances to walk off that path with views for days. Families will find calm sandy coves around Monterosso or Sestri Levante. Photographers will chase the light in Vernazza or Baia del Silenzio. And if you simply want to slow down, there are towns like Lerici or Tellaro where time seems to move differently.
As for when to come, spring and autumn are magic. May and June bring warm weather and blooming terraces, while September and early October are perfect for swimming without the peak-season crowds. July and August can be fun too, but expect packed trains and busy beaches.
How to Get Around: Train, Car, or Boat?
One of the things I love about Liguria is how many ways there are to move around and how each one changes your perspective on the region.
The train is hands down the easiest option along the coast. There’s a single line that hugs the shore, connecting Genoa with almost every major town and village all the way down to La Spezia. It’s cheap, fast, and runs often, which means you can wake up in one village, hop on a train, and be somewhere completely different in twenty minutes. The only downside is that in summer, the trains can get packed, especially around the Cinque Terre.
A car, on the other hand, gives you freedom inland. If you’re curious about hilltop villages like Apricale or want to detour to places that trains don’t reach, renting a car is worth it. But I’ll be honest: driving in Liguria isn’t always relaxing. Roads can be narrow and twisty, parking is notoriously difficult, and in popular towns you might spend more time hunting for a space than enjoying the view.
Then there are the boats, which are my personal favourite when the weather plays along. From April to October, ferries link places like Portovenere, the Cinque Terre villages, Portofino, and San Fruttuoso. Seeing the coastline from the water is unforgettable. You get the postcard views of pastel houses clinging to cliffs, and arriving by boat often feels like sneaking in through a back door. Just remember that ferries are seasonal and can be cancelled if the sea is rough.
So here’s the rule of thumb I use: if you only have a few days and you’re sticking to the coast, trains and boats are perfect. If you have a week and want to wander inland, add a car to the mix. And don’t be afraid to combine them. Sometimes the most memorable days happen when you switch from train to boat to foot all in one go.
Food & Drink to Plan Around
Food in Liguria is one of the reasons I keep coming back. It’s simple, fresh, and tied so closely to the land and sea. You’ll quickly realise that pesto here is not the same as the bright green paste from a jar at home. In Genoa, try it the traditional way: hand-pounded in a mortar, spooned over twisted trofie pasta or thin sheets of lasagne. It’s peppery, garlicky, and silky all at once.
Then there’s focaccia. You’ll find it everywhere, sometimes sprinkled with rosemary and salt, sometimes baked with onions or even sugar for a sweet version. In Recco, it takes on another form entirely: focaccia di Recco, a thin, crisp bread stuffed with molten cheese. Eating a slice straight from the oven is worth a detour on its own.
Seafood is the other constant. In Monterosso, try anchovies fried, marinated, or baked into tarts. Around La Spezia, mussels are a local specialty, often served stuffed. If you’re adventurous, seek out sea urchins, usually eaten raw with a squeeze of lemon. Pair it all with a glass of crisp Vermentino or Pigato, two white wines that taste like sunshine and salt air. And if you really want to dig deeper, take a pesto-making class in Genoa. There’s something unforgettable about pounding basil, garlic, and pine nuts in a stone mortar while an instructor tells you the stories behind the dish.
Best Hikes & Viewpoints
Hiking in Liguria is a treat because the trails are rarely just about getting from point A to B. They’re about the views, the scent of the sea, and the rhythm of walking through villages that feel timeless. The most famous route is the Sentiero Azzurro, also called the Cinque Terre Blue Trail. It links the five villages, sometimes right along the cliffs.
Parts of it can be closed after storms, so check conditions before setting off, but when it’s open, the walk is spectacular and surprisingly accessible. If you’re after something a little more rugged, hike from Monterosso up to Punta Mesco. It’s about an hour and a half, and the view back over the Cinque Terre makes the climb worth every step.
Around Portofino, the regional park has trails that lead either to San Fruttuoso where you can reward yourself with a swim or out to the lighthouse for wide-open sea views. Near Sestri Levante, Punta Manara is a quieter option. The path winds through pine forest, and when you reach the point, it feels like you’ve found your own private lookout.
Beaches & Swimming Spots
Liguria isn’t all rocky coves; there are plenty of places where you can lay out a towel and swim. My personal favourite is the Baia del Silenzio in Sestri Levante. It has a storybook quality, especially at dawn when the beach is empty and the houses glow softly in the light. Monterosso, in Cinque Terre, is where you’ll find the largest sandy beach in the region, which makes it ideal if you’re travelling with kids or just want space to stretch out.
For something more dramatic, head to San Fruttuoso. The abbey looms right over the cove, and the water is crystal clear, arriving by boat makes it even more special. Recco might be better known for its focaccia, but there’s also a pebbly beach here where locals swim after work. None of these spots are secret, but each offers its own slice of Riviera life, whether you want lively or tranquil.
Itineraries
Planning a trip to Liguria can feel overwhelming at first because there are so many tempting places to squeeze in. Over time, I’ve learned that less is often more here rushing from town to town doesn’t leave much space for the swims, long lunches, and evening strolls that make Liguria special. Here are a few itineraries I’ve tried myself, written the way I’d explain them to a friend.
24 Hours (1 Day)
If you only have a single day, base yourself in Genoa. Spend the morning wandering its historic centre, ducking into narrow alleys and popping out into grand piazzas. Have lunch at a trattoria that serves trofie al pesto. It’s essential to taste it here. In the afternoon, catch a train along the coast to Portofino. Even if you’ve seen it in photos a hundred times, standing on the piazzetta as the sun begins to drop behind the hills is unforgettable. Stay until the colours soften, then head back to Genoa in the evening.
3 Days
Within three days, you can see both the city and the coast without rushing. Spend your first day in Genoa, mixing its gritty backstreets with highlights like the Palazzi dei Rolli. On day two, make your way to Portofino and Santa Margherita. If you have the energy, hike or take a boat to San Fruttuoso for a swim by the abbey. Day three is for slowing down in Sestri Levante. Swim in the Baia del Silenzio, order an aperitivo, and let yourself sink into the slower pace of a smaller town.
5 Days
Five days lets you layer in the Cinque Terre and Portovenere. Start in Genoa for one night, then devote two full days to the Cinque Terre villages. Walk a trail or two if they’re open, and balance it with time in the water. On day four, take a boat to Portovenere and, if the sea is calm, hop across to Palmaria island for a walk. Save day five for something flexible, maybe return to Sestri Levante if you crave relaxation, or explore Camogli if you want somewhere that feels more local.
7 Days
A week gives you room to balance the coast with an inland detour. Spend your first day in Genoa, then two days exploring the Cinque Terre. On day four, shift gears with a trip to Porto Venere. Day five can be all about Portofino and Santa Margherita, while day six is a mix of sea and forest with the Punta Manara hike from Sestri Levante. For your last day, drive inland to Apricale or Bussana Vecchia. Ending the trip in a hilltop village, with stone houses and quiet lanes, is a beautiful contrast to the coastal buzz.
Where to Stay
When I think about Liguria, the first thing I always remind people is that choosing the right base really shapes your trip. Each town has its own vibe, so it’s less about finding the “perfect” place and more about matching it with what you want out of your visit.
Genoa has been my favorite city base when I’ve wanted a mix of history and food. Wandering its caruggi (narrow medieval alleys) by day and sitting down to plates of fresh pesto in the evening made me feel like I was experiencing the real heart of Liguria, not just passing through.
If you’re trying to keep costs down but still want quick access to Cinque Terre, La Spezia is the most practical choice. The trains from here run like clockwork, and I liked being able to return in the evenings to a quieter, more local atmosphere with less of a tourist crush.
For something more refined, Santa Margherita Ligure is where I’d go if I wanted a touch of luxury without being right in Portofino itself. It has elegant waterfront promenades, stylish cafés, and still feels relaxed enough to enjoy without the crowds.
Sestri Levante is a place I often suggest for families. The two bays there Baia delle Favole and Baia del Silenzio are shallow, sandy, and feel safer if you’re traveling with kids compared to the rocky shores of the Cinque Terre villages.
And then there’s Recco. It might not be on everyone’s radar, but if you love food culture, it’s worth it. I came here just to try the focaccia col formaggio (a thin, gooey cheese-filled focaccia the town is famous for), and I’d happily go back just for that.
Practical Tips & Safety
A few things made my own travel around Liguria much smoother. Trains are the lifeline here, but don’t forget to validate your ticket before boarding. There are little green machines at every station. If you’re planning to hop between Cinque Terre villages, the Cinque Terre Card is worth looking into. It covers both the trains and the hiking trails, which takes the stress out of figuring out separate tickets.
In the summer, ferries are another way to get around, and I loved seeing the villages from the water, but tickets often sell out. I learned the hard way that buying them last minute isn’t always possible, so get them early in the day.
If you’re driving, patience is key. Parking is scarce, especially in the Cinque Terre villages where cars aren’t even allowed inside. I usually leave the car in a designated garage in La Spezia or Levanto and stick to trains and boats after that.
Accessibility can also be a challenge. Many of the villages are built into cliffs, so expect steep staircases and uneven paths. If mobility is a concern, Monterosso al Mare is the flattest and the easiest to navigate.
And finally, while English is widely understood in the main tourist spots, I found that learning a few words of Italian made interactions warmer. A simple grazie or buongiorno goes a long way, especially in smaller towns.
Photo & Pinterest Kit
One of my favorite ways to capture Liguria is to think in terms of light and perspective. If you’re planning to create Pinterest-friendly images or just want beautiful memories, a little timing makes all the difference.
In Portofino, the view that stuck with me most was from Castello Brown. The walk up is short but steep, and once you’re at the top you can look back down over the harbor. The pastel houses curve around the water like a stage set, and boats bob gently against the docks. Late afternoon light brings out the terracotta and pink tones in the buildings, which makes photos feel soft and timeless.
Over in Cinque Terre, each village has its own character, but I always return to Manarola at sunset. The way the houses tumble down toward the sea feels almost theatrical, and when the lights flick on one by one, it creates this golden glow against the cliffs. In Vernazza, the view from the castle is worth the climb. From up there, you can frame the small harbour perfectly, with fishing boats and turquoise water below.
For something quieter, Baia del Silenzio in Sestri Levante is magic at dawn. The reflections on the still water make the pastel houses look like they’re melting into the sea. I remember standing there with just a few early risers and feeling like the whole bay belonged to us.
And then there’s San Fruttuoso, a place you can only reach by boat or footpath. Approaching it by water is unforgettable. The abbey suddenly comes into view, wedged between the green hills and the pebble beach, and it feels like stepping back in time. If you can, take a wide shot from the boat. It’s one of those perspectives you just can’t get on land.
Conclusion
Liguria rewards you when you slow down. The trains make it easy to hop from one village to the next, but some of my best memories came from doing the opposite: staying put, letting the rhythm of the place sink in, and noticing the details.
My favorite evening was in Sestri L evante, sitting on a bench by the Baia del Silenzio after a swim. I had focaccia wrapped in paper from a local bakery, still warm and salty with olive oil, and I just watched as families strolled the promenade and kids ran in and out of the water. It was such an ordinary scene for the locals, but for me, it was the essence of why this region is so easy to love.
Whether you’re here for the food, for the hiking trails, or just to carve out a few sun-drenched days by the sea, Liguria has a way of fitting into almost any Italy itinerary. If you enjoyed this guide, you might like my detailed post on Genoa. It’s the city that made me fall for the region in the first place, and it’s still where I send anyone planning their first trip to Liguria.
