The first time I stepped off the train in Bologna, I didn’t realize I was about to eat my way through Italy’s most delicious region. Emilia-Romagna isn’t just famous for tagliatelle al ragù (though once you’ve twirled it around your fork in a family-run trattoria, you’ll never use the phrase “spaghetti Bolognese” again). It’s the kind of place where food traditions are treated like treasures, passed down for centuries and fiercely protected.
But Emilia-Romagna is more than just a culinary pilgrimage. One day you might be staring up at shimmering gold mosaics in Ravenna, and the next you could be standing inside a garage surrounded by scarlet Ferraris. The region stretches from the Apennine mountains down to the Adriatic Sea, offering a mix of medieval towns, beach holidays, and countryside vineyards.
When I started planning, I found myself overwhelmed by choice. So, I’ve gathered everything I learned about the dishes worth traveling for, the cities that stuck with me, and the routes that make the most sense into one place. Think of this as your friend-to-friend guide to the best things to do in Emilia-Romagna, with enough detail to help you plan a real trip, not just daydream.
Quick Snapshot of Emilia-Romagna
If you’re new to the region, here’s the basics. Bologna is the capital and usually the best entry point, whether you’re flying directly into its international airport or arriving by train from Milan, Venice, or Florence. Travel times are short: Milan to Bologna takes just over an hour, and Florence is only 40 minutes away, so you can easily slot this region into a bigger Italy itinerary.
Seasons matter here. Spring and early autumn are perfect if you want pleasant weather for sightseeing and plenty of food festivals. I went in late September and stumbled into a truffle market, a happy accident. July and August bring the beach crowds to Rimini and the Romagna coast. It’s lively and fun if you’re in party mode, but hot and sticky inland. Winter is quieter and great for museums and food-focused trips, especially since hearty pasta dishes and Lambrusco taste even better when it’s cold outside.
What makes Emilia-Romagna stand out? Locals will proudly tell you: food, cars, and history. It’s the birthplace of Parmigiano-Reggiano, balsamic vinegar, and prosciutto di Parma. It’s home to Ferrari, Ducati, and Lamborghini. And it has UNESCO treasures like Ravenna’s mosaics and Bologna’s endless porticoes, the longest in the world.
At a Glance: My Favorite Experiences
When I think back on Emilia-Romagna, these moments rise to the top:
- Bologna’s porticoes: Walking under miles of covered walkways that frame the city, stopping for espresso at tucked-away cafes, and climbing the Asinelli Tower for a view that stretches across terracotta rooftops.
- Parma’s dairies: Watching cheese masters stir giant copper vats of curd before rows of Parmigiano wheels stacked like golden libraries. The taste of a 24-month wedge, nutty and salty, is unforgettable.
- Modena’s balsamic vinegar: Stepping into an acetaia, where wooden barrels the size of small drums hold vinegar that has been aging for decades. One drop on a spoon felt like a revelation.
- Ravenna’s mosaics: Standing in the Basilica di San Vitale, where the glittering blues and golds make you crane your neck until it hurts. Photographs don’t do them justice.
- Ferrari museums: In Maranello and Modena, even if you’re not a car enthusiast, the energy around Ferrari is contagious. I found myself grinning at engines I didn’t understand.
- Rimini’s beaches: Bright umbrellas in neat rows, shallow waters perfect for wading, and long evening walks on the boardwalk with gelato in hand.
- Ferrara by bike: Cycling along Renaissance walls that circle the town, past moats and brick castles, made me feel like I was living inside a history book.
- The Apennines: Green hills, hiking trails, and hot springs tucked into valleys. After a long walk, I soaked in a natural thermal pool surrounded by forest.
- Po Delta: A birdwatcher’s paradise where flamingos really do stand in shallow lagoons. The fishing town of Comacchio nearby feels like a smaller, quieter Venice.
- Hill towns like Brisighella: Cobblestone streets, tiny piazzas, and views that stretch across olive groves. These places felt like secrets, even though they’ve been there for centuries.
- MotoGP at Misano: The roar of engines and the passion of Italian fans even as a casual spectator, the adrenaline was real.
Lambrusco tastings: Lightly sparkling red wine that tastes better in Emilia-Romagna than anywhere else. I drank it in a vineyard while watching the sun set over the vines.
Bologna: The City of Porticoes and Pasta
Bologna is where I started, and I think it’s the perfect introduction to the region. The city has an energy that comes from its mix of students, food traditions, and medieval history. You’ll notice the porticoes right away covered arcades that stretch for miles, shading you from sun and rain. Walking through them feels both practical and poetic, and at night they glow softly under the streetlights.
Climbing the Asinelli Tower was a highlight for me, though I’ll admit the wooden staircase is narrow and feels endless. The reward at the top is worth it: rooftops the color of burnt orange tiles, with the green hills of the Apennines beyond.
Food is the other star of Bologna. The Quadrilatero Market is where I graze from one stall to another: a slice of mortadella here, a chunk of pecorino there, and little jars of fresh pasta waiting to be cooked. Of course, I had to order tagliatelle al ragù, the dish outsiders mistakenly call spaghetti Bolognese. Here, it’s served simply, with fresh pasta and a rich meat sauce that clings to every strand.
One of my favorite moments was joining a cooking class. We spent the morning rolling tortellini by hand, and while mine looked misshapen compared to the instructor’s, I felt oddly proud. Eating them afterward, floating in a light broth, was even better knowing I’d made them myself.
Bologna doesn’t go to sleep early, thanks to its huge student population. The University Quarter has lively bars, cheap aperitivo spots, and crowds that spill into the streets on warm evenings. I ended my nights there with a spritz in hand, surrounded by chatter in a dozen languages.
If you visit, stay in the historic center. Bologna is compact and easy to navigate on foot, and being close to Piazza Maggiore means you can wander out for morning cappuccino or late-night gelato without worrying about transport. Two days here feels right enough to soak up the atmosphere without rushing.
Parma: Cheese, Ham, and Opera
Parma feels softer and more elegant than Bologna, and it won me over almost immediately. The streets are wide, the piazzas have a kind of understated charm, and the food here is legendary. I woke up early one morning to visit a Parmigiano-Reggiano dairy, and it was one of the most memorable experiences of my trip. At 7 a.m., the cheesemakers were already at work, stirring massive copper cauldrons with what looked like wooden oars. The smell of warm milk filled the air. After the curds were pressed and shaped, we walked into the aging room: thousands of golden wheels stacked floor to ceiling like a treasure vault. Tasting a slice of 24-month Parmigiano straight from the source felt almost spiritual sharp, nutty, and unlike anything I’d bought back home.
Parma isn’t just about cheese. Prosciutto di Parma is just as famous, and visiting a prosciutto producer showed me the patience it takes to cure hams for months, sometimes years, until they develop that sweet, delicate flavor. Paired with a glass of Lambrusco, it was perfection.
Culture lovers will appreciate Teatro Farnese; a wooden theater built in the 1600s and painstakingly rebuilt after WWII. Even if you’re not usually into opera, consider coming during the Verdi Festival in autumn. Parma is Verdi’s hometown, and hearing his music here feels extra powerful.
Modena & Maranello: Vinegar and Ferraris
Modena was a surprise. I arrived thinking only of balsamic vinegar but quickly realized it has layered a beautiful cathedral, a lively piazza, and a food market that locals actually use. But yes, the vinegar was the highlight. I visited an acetaia, the traditional vinegar loft, where barrels of oak, chestnut, and cherry wood hold vinegar that has been aging for decades. The air was thick with sweetness. My guide poured a few drops of 25-year-old balsamic onto a spoon, and it was nothing like the thin, sharp vinegar from supermarkets. This was syrupy, balanced, and so concentrated that one drop was enough. I instantly understood why it’s called “black gold.”
Then, just 20 minutes away in Maranello, the vibe shifts completely. This is Ferrari country. Even if you’re not a car enthusiast, the Ferrari Museum is impressive, with Formula 1 cars, engines, and interactive exhibits. In Modena itself, the Enzo Ferrari Museum tells the founder’s story with sleek design and, of course, more cars.
My favorite part? Watching visitors grown adults light up like kids at Christmas when they climbed into a simulator or posed next to a scarlet Ferrari. If you’re tempted, you can even book a test drive on the roads outside Maranello. It’s pricey, but where else in the world can you legally drive a Ferrari on Italian roads just for fun?
Ravenna: A City of Mosaics
Ravenna feels quieter than Bologna or Modena, but inside its churches, it’s anything but quiet. The mosaics here shimmer with blues, greens, and golds, and I found myself craning my neck for long stretches, just trying to take in the detail. The Basilica di San Vitale is the crown jewel, with walls and ceilings covered in glittering images that look as fresh today as they did in the 6th century. Just across the courtyard is the Mausoleum of Galla Placidia, smaller and more intimate, but the starry ceiling left me speechless.
What I loved most was how approachable it felt. You can see all eight UNESCO sites in a single day, though I recommend splitting them into morning and afternoon so your eyes (and brain) don’t get overwhelmed. A ticket covers several sites, and walking between them takes you past leafy streets and quiet squares where you can pause for espresso.
Ravenna doesn’t try to impress crowds or big piazzas; it simply reveals itself, piece by piece, in tiny mosaic tiles.
Rimini & the Romagna Coast
By the time I reached Rimini, I was ready for sea air. The city is best known for its beaches, and they stretch as far as the eye can see. Rows of umbrellas, lounge chairs, and lifeguard towers give it a cheerful, organized feel. I spent an afternoon swimming in shallow waters, perfect for families and non-swimmers. Later, I joined the locals for a walk along the boardwalk, gelato in hand, as the sun set.
But Rimini isn’t only about the beach. In the old town, you’ll find Roman ruins like the Tiberius Bridge and the Arch of Augustus. It felt strange to wander from beach bars into a Roman forum, but that’s Rimini’s charm; it’s both playful and historic.
Families will love Mirabilandia, a huge theme park nearby, while nightlife seekers will find plenty of open-air clubs along the coast. I visited during La Notte Rosa in July, when the entire coast celebrates with music, fireworks, and everyone dressed in pink. It was crowded, chaotic, and incredibly fun.
Ferrara: Renaissance by Bike
Ferrara feels like a city designed for bicycles. When I arrived, I immediately noticed locals of all ages pedaling past me, baskets filled with bread or flowers, coats fluttering in the breeze. It’s flat, compact, and surrounded by Renaissance walls that you can circle in under an hour on two wheels. Renting a bike here isn’t just a tourist activity, it’s how you blend in.
One of my favorite moments was coasting slowly along the walls, stopping at viewpoints to look out over red-brick towers and tree-lined streets. The Este Castle dominates the center of town, complete with a moat and drawbridges that make you feel like you’ve stepped back into the 1500s. Inside, you’ll find frescoed ceilings and stories of the powerful Este family who once ruled Ferrara, but honestly, I loved just sitting outside the castle with a cappuccino, people-watching as bikes zipped by.
Ferrara’s cathedral and Palazzo dei Diamanti (with its diamond-shaped stone façade) are also worth a stop, but the city’s real charm comes from its rhythm. It feels slower, more spacious, and refreshingly un-touristy. If you’re visiting Emilia-Romagna with kids, this is one of the easiest cities to explore without stress.
Po Delta & Comacchio: Wetlands and Quiet Canals
After days of cities and food tours, the Po Delta felt like a deep breath. It’s a vast wetland where rivers, lagoons, and marshes spill into the Adriatic. I joined a small boat trip at sunrise, and the light was magical soft pink skies, mirror-like water, and silhouettes of flamingos standing in the shallows. Birdwatchers will be in heaven here, but even if you’re not, it’s impossible not to appreciate the sense of calm.
Nearby, the town of Comacchio stole my heart. Often called “Little Venice,” it has pastel-colored houses, canals crossed by arched bridges, and a much slower pace. Instead of gondolas, small fishing boats bob in the water. I wandered narrow alleys that seemed unchanged for centuries and ended up at a trattoria serving grilled eel, a local specialty. It wasn’t what I usually order, but trying it here felt like honoring the place.
What I loved about Comacchio is how local it felt. No crowds, no pressure to tick off a list, just time to soak in the atmosphere. If you’re doing a road trip, I recommend at least half a day here, ideally with a meal by the water.
Itineraries for Emilia-Romagna
I know how overwhelming this region can feel, so here are a few itineraries I’ve tested and tweaked to make them realistic and enjoyable.
48 Hours (Weekend Escape)
Start in Bologna, since it’s the easiest entry point. Spend your first day walking under the porticoes, climbing the Asinelli Tower, and snacking your way through the Quadrilatero Market. In the evening, join a cooking class or simply book a trattoria table for tagliatelle al ragù and a glass of Sangiovese.
On day two, take a train to Modena (20–30 minutes). Visit the cathedral, then join a balsamic vinegar tour at an acetaia. If you’re a car enthusiast, squeeze in the Enzo Ferrari Museum before heading back to Bologna for the night.
3–4 Days (Food & Culture Loop)
With a few more days, you can slow down. Spend two nights in Bologna, then head to Parma for a day of cheese and ham tours. Stay overnight to enjoy its elegant piazzas and maybe catch an opera performance. On day three, move to Ferrara, rent a bike, and circle the Renaissance walls. If you have a fourth day, tack on Ravenna for mosaics before looping back to Bologna.
7 Days (Best of the Region)
A week lets you taste Emilia-Romagna properly. Use Bologna as a base for the first three nights, making day trips to Modena and Ravenna. Then move on to Parma for food experiences, followed by two nights in Rimini to balance history with beach time. End with a night in Ferrara or Comacchio for something quieter before departing.
10–14 Days (Road Trip Dream)
Rent a car for this one. Start in Bologna, then drive to Modena and Maranello for vinegar and Ferraris. Continue to Parma, then swing north to Ferrara. From there, follow the coast to Comacchio and the Po Delta, before spending a few nights in Rimini. If you have extra time, add in smaller towns like Brisighella or San Leo, or head into the Apennines for hiking and thermal spas.
Tip: Italian motorways (autostrade) have tolls, and city centers often have restricted traffic zones (ZTLs). Plan parking just outside the old towns and walk in it saves headaches and fines.
When to Visit Emilia-Romagna
Timing your trip makes a big difference here. I went in late September, and it turned out to be perfect. The days were warm enough for outdoor cafes, the evenings were cool, and I stumbled into a truffle market in the hills that I hadn’t even planned for.
Spring (April–June) is a sweet spot. The countryside is green, markets are overflowing with fresh produce, and cities feel lively without being packed. Bologna in May has that perfect balance: long days for exploring and cooler evenings for sitting outside with a spritz.
Summer (July–August) is beach season on the Romagna coast. Rimini, Riccione, and Cesenatico come alive with music, beach clubs, and families who’ve been returning to the same seaside hotels for generations. I’ll be honest it’s hot inland, and Bologna or Parma can feel stifling in August. But if you’re here for the Adriatic, the energy is infectious. If you can, time your visit to catch La Notte Rosa in July, when the whole coastline dresses in pink lights, concerts spill onto the sand, and fireworks explode over the water.
Autumn (September–October) is food festival heaven. This is when Emilia-Romagna shines: truffle fairs in the Apennines, grape harvest festivals in Lambrusco country, and the Verdi Festival in Parma. I loved how the air had a crispness to it, and meals felt heartier as the weather cooled.
Winter (November–February) is quieter. Some coastal towns go into hibernation, but cities like Bologna and Modena stay lively, especially around Christmas markets. It’s also the cheapest time to travel, and hearty dishes like tortellini in broth or lasagne verdi taste even better when it’s cold outside. If you’re a motorsports fan, keep an eye on the Imola and Misano race calendars; some events run in spring and autumn, but off-season tours of the circuits are also available.
Practical Tips for Traveling Emilia-Romagna
Getting around Emilia-Romagna is easier than I expected. The train network is excellent for most major cities. Bologna to Modena takes less than 30 minutes, Bologna to Parma is about an hour, and Ravenna is around 1.5 hours. I relied on trains for the bulk of my trip, and they were punctual, affordable, and straightforward to use. Tickets for regional trains don’t need seat reservations, just validate them before boarding.
That said, if you want to explore the countryside, small hill towns, or the Po Delta, renting a car is worth it. Driving here wasn’t difficult, but there are quirks. The ZTL zones (restricted traffic areas) in city centers are easy to miss, and the fines are steep, so always park just outside the historic center. Motorway tolls add up, but they save time. I found fuel stations along the autostrada to be pricier, filling up in towns was cheaper.
Budgeting: Emilia-Romagna isn’t as expensive as Rome or Milan. In Bologna, a plate of fresh pasta at a trattoria set me back €10–15, while a more elaborate dinner with wine cost €25–30. Museum tickets are usually under €10, except for the Ferrari Museums, which are closer to €20–25. Food tours and balsamic tastings range from €15 to €40, depending on how fancy you go.
Language: English is spoken in museums, hotels, and tours, but in smaller towns or markets, Italian is the norm. I found that even learning a few phrases “un caffè, per favore,” or “quanto costa?” opened doors and sparked smiles.
Packing tip: Comfortable shoes are essential. Bologna’s cobblestones, Ferrara’s bike rides, and Ravenna’s walking routes can be tough if you’re not prepared. If you’re heading in summer, bring light clothing and a hat; if it’s autumn or winter, layers are key.
Food & Drink Highlights of Emilia-Romagna
If I had to choose one reason to keep coming back to Emilia-Romagna, it would be the food. This region isn’t just proud of its cuisine, it guards it like a family secret. Every bite tells a story, and once you taste these specialties at the source, you realize why people call Emilia-Romagna Italy’s “food valley.”
Parmigiano-Reggiano
You can buy Parmesan cheese anywhere in the world, but Parmigiano-Reggiano is something else entirely. I visited a dairy near Parma at dawn, when the day’s milk was being stirred in giant copper vats. The cheesemakers worked with a quiet focus, as if they’d been repeating these steps their whole lives.
Tip: Buy a vacuum-packed wedge at the dairy. It travels well and makes the perfect souvenir.
Traditional Balsamic Vinegar of Modena
I’ll never forget my first spoonful of real balsamic vinegar in Modena. It wasn’t sharp or watery like the bottles in grocery stores. It was thick, almost syrupy, with flavors that shifted from sweet to tangy to smoky all in one drop.
The aging process is fascinating: vinegar moves through barrels of different woods, sometimes for 12, 25, even 50 years. Each barrel adds something cherry wood gives fruitiness, oak brings depth. Tasting it on a tiny spoon, I felt like I was sipping history. Locals drizzle it on everything from steak to strawberries, but honestly, I could have eaten it straight.
Pasta Dishes
Bologna taught me one lesson: never call it spaghetti bolognese. Here, it’s tagliatelle al ragù, wide ribbons of fresh pasta coated in a slow-cooked meat sauce. Every restaurant has its own recipe, but the basics stay the same: hand-rolled pasta, a sauce that simmers for hours, and no shortcuts.
Another dish I fell in love with was tortellini in brodo. Tiny stuffed pasta parcels float in a clear broth, warming and comforting, especially on a chilly evening. In Modena, I tried tortelloni, larger and filled with ricotta and herbs, served with butter and sage. Simple, but unforgettable.
Lambrusco & Local Wines
Before this trip, I thought of Lambrusco as a sweet, forgettable wine. In Emilia-Romagna, it completely changed my mind. Served chilled, lightly sparkling, and dry, it was the perfect match for rich pasta sauces and salty cheeses.
I visited a vineyard outside Modena where we sipped Lambrusco at sunset, the fields glowing around us. The wine was fruity but not heavy, refreshing and celebratory. It’s the kind of drink that feels like it belongs at every table here.
Sweet Endings
Don’t skip dessert. I found myself hooked on zuppa inglese, a custard and sponge cake layered with Alchermes liqueur that turns everything pink. In Bologna, rice cakes (torta di riso) were sweet, dense, and perfect with espresso.
Conclusion
Emilia-Romagna surprised me in ways I didn’t expect. I came for the food, and yes, rolling tortellini in Bologna, tasting Parmigiano straight from the source in Parma, and sipping 25-year-old balsamic in Modena were unforgettable. But what stayed with me just as much were the small details: cycling next to school kids in Ferrara, watching the Adriatic turn pink during La Notte Rosa, or sipping Lambrusco in a vineyard as the sun disappeared behind the hills.
This region doesn’t feel rushed. It rewards slow travel, sitting down for a two-hour lunch, wandering under porticoes without a plan, or taking detours into hill towns that don’t appear on most itineraries. If you only see Florence, Rome, and Venice, you miss out on this quieter, richer slice of Italy.
If I could give one piece of advice, it would be this: start in Bologna, then let your appetite and curiosity guide you. Emilia-Romagna is less about ticking off sights and more about experiencing moments and I promise, those moments will stay with you long after your trip ends.
