The first time I walked through Pompeii’s crumbling stone gates, I was struck by the silence. For a city that once pulsed with markets, music, and street chatter, the quiet felt almost otherworldly. Mount Vesuvius loomed in the distance, its slopes deceptively calm, while sun-warmed dust rose beneath my shoes. I had seen photos before, but nothing prepared me for the scale entire streets, frescoed homes, and public spaces frozen in time since that fateful eruption in 79 AD.
If you’re planning a trip here, you’re in for more than just a history lesson. Pompeii is an emotional journey through ordinary lives cut short, extraordinary art preserved by tragedy, and a cityscape that feels both haunting and beautiful. In this guide, I’ll share what I loved most about exploring Pompeii, along with insider tips to make your own visit unforgettable.
1. Start at the Forum
The Forum was my first real glimpse into the scale of Pompeii, and it instantly set the tone for the rest of my visit. This vast open square, framed by crumbling columns and the skeletal outlines of temples, was once where politics, religion, and daily commerce all collided. I could almost picture senators debating in one corner, merchants loudly hawking goods in another, and children darting between the stalls.
From here, you get sweeping views of Mount Vesuvius a silent reminder of why this city fell silent. It’s one of the best spots to orient yourself before exploring deeper, as many of Pompeii’s most important sites fan out from this central point.
Tip: Get here right after the gates open. The early morning light softens the ruins and casts long, dramatic shadows that make the whole place feel cinematic. Plus, you’ll enjoy a rare moment of quiet before the day-tripping crowds arrive.
2. Villa of the Mysteries
Tucked just beyond the main archaeological park, the Villa of the Mysteries feels like stepping into someone’s private world one that’s been sealed for centuries. The villa’s most famous feature is its vibrant fresco cycle, believed to depict a mysterious initiation into the cult of Dionysus. The figures are life-sized, the reds so intense they almost glow, and the scenes carry an intimacy that made me stop and just…stare.
What struck me most was how well-preserved the colors are. After nearly 2,000 years, they still feel fresh, as if the artist only just packed up their brushes. The villa also has airy rooms that open onto gardens, offering a glimpse of how the elite once lived in both grandeur and comfort.
Why it stood out to me: The artwork felt alive. Standing in that dimly lit room, surrounded by watchful eyes painted on the walls, I half-expected someone in a toga to walk in and ask what I was doing there.
3. House of the Vettii
The House of the Vettii is one of Pompeii’s crown jewels, recently restored to show off its opulence. Two wealthy freedmen owned it, and the interiors are a masterclass in Roman luxury. Every wall is a canvas from mythological scenes to intricate geometric borders and the detail is astonishing.
The peristyle garden in the center is like a breath of fresh air after the dense rooms inside. It’s easy to imagine the owners strolling here in the evening, wine in hand, as water trickled from small fountains. What’s fascinating is how the art reflects their status: some frescoes feature explicit imagery, which was seen as a symbol of prosperity and fertility.
Tip: Check the official site before your trip the house was closed for years during restoration, but now it’s reopened, the colors and details are sharper than I ever imagined.
4. House of the Tragic Poet
Smaller than many of Pompeii’s grand villas, the House of the Tragic Poet proves that size isn’t everything when it comes to artistry. The “Cave Canem” mosaic at the entrance is both a playful warning and a brilliant piece of craftsmanship the black-and-white tiles capture every detail of the snarling dog. Inside, the floors and walls are decorated with mythological scenes so finely executed they could pass for paintings.
I loved how this house felt more intimate than others. It didn’t overwhelm you with grandeur; instead, it gave you a sense of a well-lived, well-loved home. The mosaics and frescoes here are worth taking your time with, they’re easy to miss if you rush through.
5. Stabian Baths
The Stabian Baths are the oldest and largest baths in Pompeii, and they’re a fascinating peek into how Romans relaxed, socialized, and even networked. Walking through, I could trace the journey of an ancient bather from the open-air palaestra (exercise yard) to the frigidarium (cold room), tepidarium (warm room), and caldarium (hot room).
The engineering blew me away. You can still see the raised floors that once allowed hot air to circulate, heating the rooms from below, and the ornate stucco decorations on the ceilings. In the apodyterium (changing room), niches along the walls would have held clothes and belongings, each space carefully decorated with painted motifs.
Zee tip: This is one of the best places to appreciate Roman ingenuity, so slow down and really look for the details from the grooves in the marble benches to the faint traces of wall frescoes.
6. Amphitheatre of Pompeii
The Amphitheatre is one of those places where your imagination can’t help but run wild. Built around 70 BC, it’s the oldest surviving Roman stone amphitheatre, and it could seat up to 20,000 spectators nearly the whole population of Pompeii and the surrounding towns.
Standing in the center of the arena, I imagined the roar of the crowd, the blare of trumpets, and the intense spectacle of gladiator fights. The design is surprisingly clever: the oval shape meant everyone had a clear view, and the entrances (or vomitoria) allowed huge crowds to flow in and out quickly.
Fun fact: If you’re a music fan, you might know this is where Pink Floyd recorded their 1971 “Live at Pompeii” performance a surreal moment where ancient stone met psychedelic rock.
Tip: Climb to the highest tier for panoramic views over the ruins and toward Mount Vesuvius. It’s also one of the quieter corners of the site if you visit early or late in the day.
7. Garden of the Fugitives
Of all the places in Pompeii, this one hit me hardest. The Garden of the Fugitives contains plaster casts of men, women, and children who died trying to flee the eruption. Their poses some curled protectively around loved ones, others covering their faces are haunting.
The surrounding garden, with its vines and greenery, is in stark contrast to the tragedy it memorializes. It’s a reminder that behind the grandeur of temples and villas, Pompeii was home to ordinary people who never saw the disaster coming.
Personal note: I stood here longer than I expected, letting the weight of history sink in. It’s not just a historical site it’s a human story. If you visit, give yourself a few quiet moments to take it in.
8. Stroll Along Via dell’Abbondanza
Via dell’Abbondanza is the main artery of Pompeii, and walking it feels like stepping into a living city. The street is lined with the remains of shops, bakeries, taverns, and homes, each with its own small story to tell. You can still see stone counters where merchants once sold hot food, brick ovens where bread was baked, and public fountains carved with worn grooves from centuries of use.
Look closer at the walls and you’ll notice graffiti not the kind we think of today, but political slogans, casual insults, and even cheeky love notes scratched into the plaster. These scribbles bring a burst of personality to the ruins, reminding you that Pompeii’s residents were witty, opinionated, and very human.
Zee Tip: Wear sturdy shoes the original stepping stones across the street are uneven, and you’ll be hopping from one to the next to avoid the gaps where cart wheels once rolled.
9. New Discoveries
One of the most exciting things about Pompeii is that it’s still giving up its secrets. Archaeologists continue to uncover fresh finds, each one offering a new perspective on life here. Recently, a beautifully painted thermopolium (ancient snack bar) was excavated, complete with colorful depictions of animals and jars still containing traces of food.
There have also been more unusual discoveries like a giraffe bone from imported banquets, and a rare glassified human brain created by the heat of the eruption. These moments of discovery make Pompeii feel alive in a different way, reminding me that the city is not frozen in the past, but still evolving as we learn more.
Travel tip: Keep an eye on the official Pompeii website before your trip. Newly excavated areas sometimes open for limited periods, and catching one of these can make your visit truly unique.
10. Practical Tips for Visiting Pompeii
Visiting Pompeii is unforgettable but it’s also a big day out, and a little planning will make it far more enjoyable. Here’s what I learned from my own trip:
Best time to visit:
Spring (April–May) and autumn (September–October) are ideal. The weather is warm but not sweltering, flowers are in bloom, and crowds are thinner than in peak summer. If you can only come in summer, aim for an early morning or late-afternoon entry to avoid the midday heat. Winter is quieter but can be chilly and damp, with some areas roped off due to rain.
Entrances:
- Porta Marina: The most popular entrance, right by the Circumvesuviana train station (“Pompei Scavi – Villa dei Misteri”). Great if you want to start at the Forum and work your way out.
- Piazza Anfiteatro: Quieter and perfect if you’d like to begin with the Amphitheatre and work toward the Forum. This side of the site feels less congested at opening time.
- Porta Stabia: Used less by tourists and a good choice if you’re joining certain guided tours.
What to bring:
Pompeii is huge, about 170 acres of excavated ruins, and you’ll be walking on uneven cobblestones for hours. Wear comfortable, supportive shoes (avoid thin sandals). Bring a wide-brimmed hat, sunglasses, and plenty of sunscreen, as there’s almost no shade. Carry a refillable water bottle; there are public fountains scattered around the site, and the water is safe to drink.
Guided tours & maps:
A good guide can transform your visit from “looking at old stones” to “walking through a living city.” They’ll point out details you’d otherwise miss, from hidden graffiti to restored mosaics. If you prefer to explore solo, grab the official map at the entrance and consider downloading the free Pompeii app for route suggestions. Audio guides are available for rent.
Break spots & food:
There’s a café near the Forum serving sandwiches, coffee, and cold drinks, but it gets busy at lunchtime and prices are high. Pack light snacks fruit, energy bars, or a small picnic so you can take a break anywhere. Benches are scarce, but many shaded steps or low walls make good impromptu rest spots.
Getting there:
From Naples, take the Circumvesuviana train toward Sorrento and get off at “Pompei Scavi – Villa dei Misteri.” The journey takes about 30–40 minutes and costs just a few euros. From Sorrento, take the same line toward Naples; travel time is roughly 30–35 minutes. If you’re driving, there’s parking near both main entrances, but it fills up fast in high season.
Extra tips for comfort:
- Start early you can easily spend 4–6 hours here.
- Mark must-sees on your map before you arrive so you don’t zigzag across the site.
- In summer, plan indoor visits (villas, baths) for the hottest part of the day.
- If you want fewer crowds in your photos, head to less famous areas first and save the Forum and main street for later.
Suggested Itinerary for a Day in Pompeii
Morning (Opening – 11:00 AM)
- Enter through Porta Marina or Piazza Anfiteatro.
- Explore the Forum, then the Stabian Baths.
- Visit the House of the Tragic Poet.
Late Morning (11:00 AM – 1:00 PM)
- See the House of the Vettii.
- Stroll Via dell’Abbondanza.
- Detour to the Amphitheatre if you didn’t start there.
Lunch Break (1:00 PM – 1:45 PM)
- Café near the Forum or your own packed lunch.
Afternoon (1:45 PM – 4:00 PM)
- Visit the Garden of the Fugitives.
- Head to the Villa of the Mysteries.
- Check newly opened excavation areas.
End of Day (4:00 PM – Closing)
- Revisit favorite spots or explore backstreets.
- Capture golden-hour photos at the Forum or Amphitheatre.
Conclusion
Walking through Pompeii is like stepping into a time capsule one filled with beauty, tragedy, and resilience. From frescoed villas to bustling streets, every corner has a story to tell. My advice? Don’t rush. Let yourself wander, pause, and imagine life here before the ash fell. It’s an experience that stays with you long after you’ve left.
